Vera View A - Sewalong part 2
Follow along step by step as I'm sewing the Vera dress view A!
Part 2 - Sleeves
Pattern: The Vera Dress, PDF pattern
My fabric: I'm using this fabric from Storrs London called Chelsea garden (in yellow) for my Vera dress. In collaboration with them I am offering you a discount code for 30% off your purchase! How great is that? Use code PLOEN1 at checkout when buying any of their gorgeous cotton lawn fabrics!
This is Part 2 of the sewalong. Read part 1 here.
In part 1 we made all the cutting and preparations needed. Now let's get sewing for real!
STEP 7. Press the sleeve. Press line is marked on the sleeve pattern.Then sew the channel for the elastic to go through.
The first seam is next to the overlocked edge, 1 cm, 3/8” seam allowance. And the second seam determines how wide the channel will become. The channel needs to be a little bit wider than your elastic.
A 1 cm, 3/8” wide elastic is used for this pattern so the channel is 1.5 cm, 1/2” wide. That’s enough to make the elastic slide through smoothly. You can use a different width but make sure you create a channel that is wide enough. 1.5 cm, 1/2” sewing line is marked on the pattern.
STEP 8. Put your elastic through the channel on the sleeve. Use a large safety pin to slide it through easily.
Secure the elastic in the seam allowance where you began with some stitching back and forth.
Then sew the elastic in place on the other side of the sleeve as well. Distribute the fabric evenly on the sleeve. This creates the ruffle effect.
STEP 9. Button loop. You can use a ribbon or elastic loop. Make sure it can go around your button easily before you sew it on. You can add some extra seam allowance to the loop length, make sure it’s not too short so it sits securely in place. Place the button loop on the right side of the facing or bodice piece, baste in place 1 cm, 3/8” from neckline. The loop should be facing towards the garment. Once turned inside out it will be facing away from the bodice and it can be buttoned.
STEP 10. Place the facings on top of the bodice right sides together and stitch all around the neckline and armhole. This will create a clean finish. Sew from notch to notch at the armhole. Leave the last parts of the facings loose. They will be attached later.
STEP 11. Cut into the seam allowance to make the curves easier to shape and turn.
Snip off excess fabric on opening at back.
Press the seam allowances open as good as you can. It can be a bit tricky. You can use a point presser where it’s hard to reach on the ironing board. Then turn the bodice right side out. Pull the back pieces through the front pieces through the shoulders. Press everything and make sure it all looks smooth and even. Then turn again to be able to attach the sleeve.
STEP 12. Baste the sleeve to the bodice. Since side seams have not been sewn yet it’s only a short distance to sew. The sleeve has no back or front
so put any end of the sleeve right sides together with the bodice. You will see where the curve of the bodice armhole lines up with the curve of the sleeve arm- hole. Sandwich the sleeve between the bodice and the facing. Sew facing and bodice right sides together with the sleeve in between. This is where the last parts of the facing gets attached. Make sure the side seam of the bodice matches the seams of the sleeve.
Repeat on the other side of the sleeve and then on the opposite sleeve. You will do this a total of 4 times. 2 times per sleeve. Press seam allowances upwards (towards facing).
It will look something like this so far:
STEP 13. Sew the side seams from the hem of the sleeve to the hem of the bodice right sides together. Press the seam allowances open. Leave only the CB seam open.
That's it for today!
Next time in part 3 we will be sewing the pockets, elasticated waist and finishing up the rest of the dress. See you then for the last part of the sewalong! :)
Leave a comment below or send me an email (firstname.lastname@example.org) if you need help with anything or have any questions at all :)
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