After more than five years of running Ploen Patterns, I thought it was time to share some things I have learned along the way.
If you are interested in starting a pattern business yourself - this series is for you!
In this part I'm going more in depth on the design process. You can read Part 1 here.
(This post contains affiliate links).
Everyone's design process will look different. There's no right or wrong way to do any of this. But there are more effective ways and I also believe it's important to create a good workflow to be able to design and develop products (in this case sewing patterns) more quickly.
Today I'm focusing on my personal design process, and I'm going to share what it usually looks when I design a new pattern. And I'm going to share some tips for those of you who are just starting out or if you are just interested in my process.
So where do I start when designing a new pattern? I always have design on my mind, therefore I always have new ideas for patterns I want to design. It's a blessing and a curse because I never run out of ideas but I'm also easily distracted. I keep a few Pinterest boards with ideas going at all times. What I save as inspiration can be a photo of anything from nice topstitching to beautiful design lines to unusual fabric combinations or shapes. In addition to pinning on Pinterest I also sketch ideas as soon as I have them (before they are forgotten). Often on the nearest piece of paper but when I'm out and about I might sketch on my phone - insta story drawings can be a life saver sometimes. I choose a solid background in an instagram story and then I draw the idea I have. A rough sketch can always be cleaned up later. Then I save it on my phone and don't publish it to my actual instagram story. I'm sure there are better apps to draw on your phone but I haven't looked in to it. 😝 This works for me when I really need to sketch out an idea quickly. The notes app on my phone is also filled with design ideas. Sometimes it's enough to write the design to remember it later. The sketch can look something like this:
Or when I use a pen and paper it will look something more like this:
Another place I look for inspiration is inside my own (and my friends) closet! Clothes I wear a lot and just love the neckline, fit, sleeves or any other detail of. Or when one of my friends wears something really nice and interesting I will always snap a picture and save it for later. Let's just say I never have too few ideas for upcoming patterns. The hard part is carving out time to actually make the ideas a reality. I'm sure you can relate... Here's a few photos of my friends garments that I just had to take photos of and save for later... :)
My friend Ella wore this beautiful thrifted top when we were on vacation in Croatia. I thought it would be such a cute sewing project that uses a tiny bit of fabric! But I haven't gotten around to pattern it out yet.
And my friend Isabell wore a cute top with a drawstring detail that I thought was very clever. This top was also thrifted and I had to take a photo to remember this detail.
So, we have our ideas, what next?
When I've come as far as knowing roughly what I want my next design to look like - I sketch it out in Illustrator or sometimes on a piece of paper first. I create a 'line drawing' or 'flat' as it's called. This sketch tells me where the seams will be and all the design details. I also sketch out the views I plan to design. Maybe I want this pattern to have a few different skirt or sleeve options? Along the way I might add or remove some parts of the design, this first sketch is just that - a first sketch. It can look something like this (this is an early sketch for my Vera pattern):
During this process I might get ideas for different styles to make the pattern more versatile. I like to include at least two views to choose from but often more. The Vera pattern has five different 'official' views for example. The final version of the sketch turned out like this:
Until next time,
Happy Sewing!
/Josefine
Ploen Patterns
]]>In 2017 I finished my pattern-making degree and I wanted to create a business for myself. I had the idea to start a pattern business for home sewers and I did a lot of research about how to get started. At that time there was not a lot of information out there but so I had to figure it out mostly on my own. I decided to begin by creating an Instagram account where I shared my sewing projects and inspiration. I also documented the process of designing my first PDF pattern. The Freja dress. I decided to make my first pattern available for free as I thought it would be good for promoting my new business and get more people interested. It ended up being a great decision and to this day a large part of my customers still find me through this free pattern! Maybe that's even how you found me? I set up an email list so I could capture emails and have a few people on the waiting list for when I launched my website and started to sell patterns. This is a strategy I would highly recommend if you are just starting out and don't know how to market your new business.
This course covers everything from how to set up the print at home tiling system, adding seam allowance, writing and illustrating the instructions to marketing the pattern once you have launched it. And so much more. There's also a great community on facebook that you can join when you buy the course. If I have to give only one tip for anyone interested in starting a pattern business it would be to get this course.
Pattern Workshop really has an answer to every question you might come across and I still use the community to this day to ask questions that come up about grading, pattern testing and many other things. I think the course is great for anyone with a little bit of experience in pattern making. It doesn't teach you how to be a good and professional pattern maker exactly, but it teaches you how to take your pattern making skills and apply them to the home sewing market and PDF pattern specifically. In the course you learn a lot about how to use Illustrator and InDesign too so it's a great resource if that's anything you are interested in.
What if I'm not a confident or experienced pattern maker yet?
Then start there. Practice your pattern making skills. This is the most important skill to have when starting a pattern business (if you are not willing to hire professionals straight away of course). Here are some things you can do to advance your pattern making skills:
Resources and software I found useful in my business from the beginning:
So there you have it! This is what I did in the beginning. Let me know your questions and suggestions for upcoming parts in this series!
Next time I will talk more in depth about my pattern design process and how it has changed over time. See you then!
Until next time,
Happy Sewing!
/Josefine
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My grandmother was an excellent seamstress. She worked as a textiles teacher and she went to school for sewing and pattern making in the '60s. I have some of her old sketches and school things still. They are a real treasure!
She also knitted a lot and taught me when I was 6 or so. I never really got the hang of knitting. I can do some basic knitting, sure, but it was always sewing I liked. So, my mother and her mother were the foundation of my first learning to sew. I remember when my grandmother asked me and my little sister to draw dress designs that she would later make into real garments. Like magic! She taught me how to cut fabric straight and tried to teach me patience. If she had still been here I know she could have taught me so much more but I'm thankful for the years I got to spend with her.
I started making my own clothes when I was around 9 years old. I would describe myself as a reckless sewist. No rules, no fear, just experimenting. I think that's how I learned most of my sewing and pattern making skills. I made a lot of mistakes and didn't listen to my mother when she tried to teach me how to do things correctly. As the years went by I taught myself draping on a dress form, some basic pattern drafting, and sewed a lot. Then when I was 20 I decided to learn sewing and pattern making for real. I took a course with a focus on tailoring and learned how to do things properly and neatly. I still enjoy my "reckless" sewing from time to time. It's really useful when developing patterns actually. Rip a seam, cut through a piece of the garment to see what happens, open up a design line, and re-pin it.
For the actual part of sewing a garment I'm thankful for my strict teachers who taught me how to correctly finish seams and create a neat and professional look. I want to wear the clothes I make nowadays and not just discarding them...
I always loved the technical part of fashion the most. I didn't know garment technician or pattern designer existed as a career. Looking back I realize that it was always the construction that spoke to me the most. I love to solve problems, find clever solutions to fit problems, and find new construction solutions. When I found a school in Stockholm that taught pattern making I was all in. But all that and my career in the fashion world ever since is for another day and another blog post.
Now I want to hear from you! How did you learn sewing? Who taught you? How did you get started? Any stories about your earliest garment sewing adventures? Leave a comment and share your experiences!
Until next time,
Happy sewing!
/Josefine
Ploen Patterns
There are so many great lingerie pattern designers out there and I thought I would add my favourite designs to this list to inspire you. Maybe you will be inspired to make your own! Some are freebies and some are available to purchase.
1. The Barrett Bralette from Madalynne Intimates. I downloaded this pattern years ago and I have all the supplies I need. I just haven't gotten started yet... I will do it soon I hope. It looks really comfortable. This is a free PDF download that you can find here.
2. This is a useful tutorial on how to make a foam cup bra. Beautiful step by step photos and instructions. It's written by Cloth Habit and you can find it here. You can use this tutorial for a lot of different patterns. Cloth Habit has a lot of great lingerie patterns, check them out here.
3. Now let's talk about anything from Sophie Hines. Her designs are gorgeous! She's selling PDF patterns, sewing kits and materials etc. You can find her website here.
4. Emerald Erin. Sewing patterns, challenges and tutorials. Her website is a gold mine for anyone wanting to learn how to sew lingerie, swimwear and more. Check it out here. In the photo you can see the Jordy bralette pattern.
5. Acacia underwear from Megan Nielsen. Among the subscriber freebies when you sign up to the Megan Nielsen newsletter you can find the Acacia pattern. This is a great basic pattern. Click here to check it out.
6. Here's a tutorial for a stretch lace racerback bra. How cute is this? You can find the tutorial here. By "My handmade Space".
7. Last but not least here's a free slip pattern! The Ruby slip by "Pattern Scissors Cloth". Click here to download.
]]>1. First up is this gorgeous button down dress from Fabrics store.
Diana - Button Down Linen Pleated Dress. Free download here.
7. The Bardon dress by Lauren Boyle of Elbe Textiles for Peppermint magazine issue 48. This is just gorgeous! I want to make this dress ASAP! Download here.
8. The Luna tank from Helen's closet. Cute basic! Always good to have. Check it out here.
9. Last but not least is the Freja dress pattern - by me! The first pattern I ever released for Ploen Patterns is this one. Lovely spring/summer dress.... click here to download!
The belt ties in to bows at the sides:
That's all I have for you this time. Let me know what other favourite free sewing patterns you know and I will share them in a future blog post.
Happy spring-sewing!
/Josefine
Ploen Patterns
]]>I'm so happy to finally be able to invite you to the Ploen Patterns head quarters! As you might know I moved in to a new studio space a couple of months ago. It's a 3 minute walk from my home and it's a lot larger than the last room I rented. And it has windows! What a luxury...
It's not completely finished yet but it's perfectly good to work in. There are some finishing touches I want to do but I figure it will always feel like that and I will think of new things to adjust and upgrade so I will show it to you now anyway :)
This room is upstairs in a collective where artists, dancers, musicians and other creative people hang out and rent studios. So fun :)
Watch the IGTV video tour here.
This is the view of the room when you walk up the stairs:
I have two tables where I keep the sewing machines. You can read more about my machines here. I also have a chair where I sit when I work on my laptop. I also have a vacuum cleaner with a tiny detachable hand held part which I use to clean up threads and fibres daily. Life changing!
I have covered the arm rests on this green swivel chair with some fabric. I have a clothes rack where I keep work in progress projects, some toiles and samples and also a few garments that I keep for inspiration.
Cutting table and peg board. I think this is my favourite part of the room. This is my standing cutting table and I have my peg board here where I keep most of my tools for pattern drafting and for cutting fabric. I have everything here easy to reach and I think it looks pretty too!
Excuse the mess - I have not been able to fit all of my fabrics in to storage yet but I’m working on it... ;)
I have my scissors, curved rulers, buttons, thread, pins, pens and everything else I need often on the peg board. I love having everything on display! You can read more about my tools here.
At the side of the cutting table I have this book shelf where I keep pdf patterns, paper patterns, material from pattern school, books and accounting things... all the fun stuff 🤪
To the right of the book shelf I have some shelving that my boyfriend helped me to put up. Here I keep all the fabric and other things. I plan to put up some curtains to cover this mess soon. Behind the cupboard doors is where I keep most of my fabric. I have it sorted by kind of fabric.
Jerseys, woven cottons, viscose etc. I like to keep them out of the open shelves to limit dust and to keep them organised.
To left when you come up the stairs there’s a couch and some storage where the people I rent this room keep some things. I also have my umbrella lights, dress form and a mirror here. I move things around when I need to take photos, when I’m draping on the dress form etc.
Over all this space is perfect to work in even though I don't think it's super pretty yet. I will work on making the space feel less cluttered and more organised and clean and I might give you another look in the spring.
The peg board is "skådis" from IKEA. Mirror and white cardboard boxes are also from IKEA. The rest of the things are gifted from my parents and second hand finds.
That's all I have for you today!
Until next time,
Happy sewing!
/Josefine
Ploen Patterns
]]>1. Staystitching.
Staystitching is a single line of straight stitching through one layer of fabric to stabilise the fabric and prevent it from stretching out. It needs to be within the seam allowance so it doesn't show on the finished garment. Use a long stitch length (almost as if you were sewing a gathering stitch). If there are some seam lines of the staystitching showing when the garment is finished you can easily remove them.
2. Understitching.
Understitching is a seam that helps a facing stay in place. When you have sewn bodice and facing necklines right sides together you press all seam allowances towards the facing and stitch them in place. This helps the facing stay on the inside so it doesn't poke out on the right side of the garment. Use understitching on neckline facings, hem facings etc. It doesn't show on the outside of the garment.
3. Topstitching.
Topstitching is where the line of stitching is designed to be seen from the outside of the garment, either decorative or functional. Topstitching is most often used on garment edges such as necklines, hems, shirt collars etc where it helps facings to stay in place and creates a crisp edge. Topstitching can also be used to attach patch pockets to a garment or for appliqué. Practice topstitching often! Sewing straight lines is not the easiest thing. This is topstitching on a patch pocket:
4. Finishing seams.
Overlock/serge & zigzag. I use these seams interchangeably in my sewing pattern instructions. When working with fabric you want to inclose and cover all raw edges in some way. The most common ways are overlocker/serger seams, zigzag or folding. The best method to use depends on your project and many different techniques are often used in the same garment. Here is an example of overlocked edges. For hems it's more common to use folding. More on that in the next point.
5. Hems.
The final touch to your sewing project. The hem is often the last step before your garment is done. You can sew an overlock/serger seam or zigzag and then fold it once and stitch in place or you can fold the hem twice and stitch in place. The double fold creates a clean finish on the inside. You can also use a hem facing - as in the Astrid skirt pattern for example. Or you can sew a bias binding hem like I did on my green Betty dress:
Generally the heavier the fabric - the wider the hem. If you are using a super thin viscose or silk you can create a narrow rolled hem and if you are using a heavy wool fabric you want the hem to be wide with a facing or maybe hem it by hand. It all depend on the look you want to achieve and how your fabric behaves. Experiment and find the method you like. This is the hem on the Vera dress pattern:
6. Twin needle.
This is a useful needle to have. I use this for hemming knits. The wrong side looks like a zigzag stitch and the right side looks like two rows of straight stitches. You can also use a twin needle for topstitching.
Instead of threading your machine with one thread you use two. You don't need to have two spools of thread in the same colour, instead you can use a bobbin thread for the second one. There are different widths of twin needles - I mostly use the widest one because I like the look of that one most. This is a twin needle hem but it's made with a coverlock machine:
7. Basting.
Basting is sewing long, easily removable running stitches , by machine or by hand. It is also called tacking. Basting stitches are sewn to temporarily join fabrics together or to mark pocket placements, button holes etc. My education was heavy on tailoring techniques and I definitely have a soft spot for hand sewing. You have a lot more control when sewing by hand and I would recommend all sewers to practice their hand sewing because it really pays off. I will create a separate blog post all about hand sewing techniques but a good start is practicing some basting. You can also baste on your sewing machine, just use long runnings stitches that are easily removed. Instead of using pins or chalk you can use some tailor tacks for marking instead.
Do you have anything to add to this list? Let me know in the comments below.
Until next time,
Happy sewing!
/Josefine
Ploen Patterns
Follow along step by step as I'm sewing the Idun dress, view A!
Pattern: The Idun Dress, PDF pattern
Suggested fabrics: Light to medium weight cotton jersey, viscose jersey or similar. Choose a fabric that is more on the firm than on the slippery side. At least 20% stretch on the crossgrain.
My fabric: I'm using a cotton jersey from Stoff & Stil. (Sold out). Cotton/elastane jersey. Around 200 gsm. For reference :)
Now let's get started! Make sure you have your pattern, fabric, thread and tools. And of course you need a sewing machine and scissors and all that good stuff. I'm using an overlocker and a coverstitch machine too but if you don't have those a zigzag stitch and a twin needle on your regular machine will work just as well.
Use a stretch needle in your sewing machine. When sewing with jersey this is important to not break the fabric accidentally. A stretch needle has a rounded point and "slides" through the knit fabric, not breaking threads on its way.
Choose a size using the size guide. Choose the size that is closest to your bust measurement.
Print your pattern.
This is a layered PDF so you can choose the size you want to print and uncheck any sizes you don’t want to print. Open the pattern file in Adobe Reader and select the layers icon on the left. Click the eye icons to make the size(s) you want visible. Make sure to leave the ”Keep selected” layer visible as this contains text, info and tile markings that you need for all sizes.
Make sure your settings are set to “print actual size”, “100%” or “true to scale”. Do not add “fit to paper”. On page 1 of the pattern you will find one test square that is 5 cm and one that is 1.5 inches. Start by only printing page 1. Measure your printed square to ensure your printer didn’t scale your pattern! When you are satisfied you can print the rest of the pattern. Assemble the pages, making sure the diamonds line up.
Prepare your fabric. Prewash your fabric the same way you intend to wash your finished garment. The reason for this step is to prevent shrinking and to detect any problems or kinks with the fabric before you use it. I have had some unpleasant surprises in the past with other fabrics where I've skipped this step and then washed my finished garment, only to find it a few sizes too small when I took it out of the machine... So don't skip this step ;)
Fit: We all have different body shapes and just as with RTW clothes no garment or pattern is made for your exact body. I always suggest you make a toile* before you cut out your fancy fabric. That way you can make adjustments to have a pattern that fits you perfectly to use over and over again.
*A toile is an early version of a finished garment made up in cheap material so that the design can be tested and perfected.
Seam allowances of 0.6 cm, 1/4" are included in the pattern.
Now it’s time to cut or trace out your size! And then start with the actual steps! I cut out my size because I prefer that method. Feel free to trace on tracing paper if that's your jam!
Here's a little video tutorial I made for instagram and to show the different steps. Especially sewing the binding. You can take a look as well as reading the blog post :)
STEP 1. Read through all the steps before you start! Place your pattern on the fabric and pin it in place making sure the grain line is right and there are no wrinkles underneath. Make sure everything is placed right before you cut! Seam allowances of 0.6 cm (1/4”) are included in the pattern. Look at the layplans (separate file) to get an idea of how to optimise your fabric amount for your size.
Measure the distance from the grain line at two points to the fabric selvage to ensure the pattern piece is placed correctly directly on the grain line.
STEP 2. Mark notches by cutting into the seam allowances a few mm. Notches are marked as triangles on the pattern pieces.
I place a pin at the dart point like this:
Then I place another pin at the same place from the other side when I remove the paper pattern.
Then when I pull the fabric apart I have marked the dart points.
I add the dart legs with a pencil (don't use a pencil if you have a sheer or light coloured fabric as it could show through, use a fabric marker instead).
STEP 3. Sew the darts on the back piece. Use a straight stitch with stretch needle. You can leave the ends loose or tie them in to a knot to secure them. Press darts towards center back.
STEP 4. Sew front pieces together.
Place center front and side front pieces right sides together. Make sure to line up the bust notch.
Sew with zigzag stitch or use an overlocker (serger).
Press shoulder seams towards the back before sewing the shoulder seam.
STEP 6. Continue to sew the side seams of the bodice. Sew with zigzag stitch or use an overlocker (serger). Right sides together.
STEP 7. Neckline binding and armhole bindings. First create circles from the binding pieces.
Sew the short end right sides together with straight stitch and stretch needle on your regular sewing machine. Or use an overlocker/serger for this step.
Split each binding in to 1/4. You can mark with pins. Do the same to the armholes and the neckline. The armholes will have marks at the shoulder seam and the armhole depth point. Then you can split front armhole and back armhole in to two. The neckline is a bit different because the front neckline is longer than the back neckline. Choose a point where you start and mark the half point (right shoulder on the illustration). Then you can mark the 1/4 points from there.
Attach the bindings to armholes and neckline, right sides together. Use a zigzag stitch to attach binding since it is less bulky than overlocking, so it’s easier to fold. Here I used overlocking though.
If you have any questions about this pattern, feel free to reach out! I'm here for you and I will help you :)
Until next time,
Happy sewing!
/Josefine
Ploen Patterns
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1. Sewing machine. This is essential. If you're reading this you probably already have a machine or at least access to a machine. I used my moms machine until I moved out. Then I bought my Husqvarna Automatic for 1400 SEK (157$, 134€). A sewing machine doesn't need to be a huge investment. It's a good idea to opt for quality when it comes to your machine but price doesn't always indicate quality. Don't be afraid to test and change either! Just because someone else loves a particular make and model doesn't mean you will. That realization will come with time. If you have a machine that you inherited and it works - keep using it! And also take good care of it. If you have the manual you can see specific instructions. If you don't have the manual - you can probably find it online. You will want to remove dust so it doesn't build up and then clean it well. Use sewing machine oil and oil your machine by dropping it in the designated holes and on the moving parts inside the machine. This will look different from machine to machine. Here's a guide to oiling vintage sewing machines. And here's a more general maintenance guide.
2. Sewing machines needles. This can seem like a jungle but don't worry it's not as complicated as you think. Different fabrics need different kinds of needles. The main distinction is between woven and knit fabrics. A standard needle is meant for woven and a stretch needle is used for knits. The standard needle is very, very sharp while the stretch needle has a softer point so as not to rip the knit threads apart. It glides through the loops of the knit instead, not destroying the fabric. There are more distinctions to be aware of - like the thickness of the needle. The thicker the fabric the thicker the needle needs to be. There are special needles for leather and denim too. Here's a comprehensive needle guide to get you started. You also need to change needle sometimes. I know, mind blowing :) After a big sewing project - change needle! Before sewing with a silky satin fabric - change needle! Can't remember the last time you changed your needle in your sewing machine? It's definitely time :) Let's think of it this way, after much use the needle will act more like an old saw than a sharp knife. It will scratch your fabric rather than going through it smoothly. You might not notice it with all fabrics but if you are sewing with a drapey viscose or a silky, satin fabric you will notice because of the broken threads creating lines in your fabric. So if you're starting on a precious ball gown in silk - use a perfect, new needle to sew. I did not do this when I started making fancy dresses at 12 years old. I just went for it and no one had told me about changing needles ever so often... I learned the hard way... It's a good thing I couldn't afford silk at the time because my fabric was not pretty after a few seams.
Bonus: here's me in a ball gown I made when I was around 15. This was when I had learned how to treat fabrics somewhat respectfully.
3. Thread. Use good quality 100% polyester thread. Gütermann is considered the best by many but it's not the only quality brand. How to know if the thread is strong enough? Try to break the thread with your hands, as in try to make it snap. If it snaps easily it's probably a cotton thread. If it's hard to make it snap it's probably polyester and therefore stronger and more suited to be used in your machine. Choosing between two colours to match your fabric? Pick the lighter one. It will blend in better. If you can't find an exact match - why not try a contrasting colour instead?
4. Fabric. Choosing fabric, fabric shopping, collecting fabric... this is one of the most fun things about sewing! When you are just starting out you don't need to spend a lot of money on this though. Use old sheets, old clothes, curtains, table cloths etc. These are excellent toile materials. When you are first getting to know your machine and beginning to learn new techniques - you need practice, and loads of it. You need to try to sew the different seams your machine offers, play around with the presser foot pressure and the thread settings, you need to learn to sew straight and zigzag and sew a nice curve. You don't need anything fancy for that. When I stared sewing I used a lot of sheets and thrift store finds to practice. Altering clothes and sewing simple garments out of inexpensive or free fabric was a great way to learn without making a huge investment. When you you these kinds of textiles you will be more relaxed too and not as afraid to experiment which is really good. When you feel a bit warmed up you can start.
5. Scissors. I would suggest investing in a good pair of scissors. Don't buy the cheapest fabric scissors you can find - splurge a little because it's worth it. I have a few fabric scissors. I have one pair of german vintage scissors that are heavy weight and can cut through layers of denim and other thick fabrics. Then I also have some "normal" fabric scissors. The most important thing is to only cut fabric with these scissors you invest in. Never ever cut paper or anything else with them. I have some great paper scissors close at hand at all times to not be tempted. I also have some really small scissors by my sewing machines to cut threads and such.
6. Seam ripper. This is a really good tool to have. You will need to rip some seams, especially in the beginning. It's less dreadful if your seam ripper is sharp so make sure you aren't using a really old one just because that's the only one you have. They are not expensive and it's nice to have more than one. You can also use them for cutting button holes open. Read this blog post for a helpful seam ripper hack. (it's number 5 in the list).
7. Iron + ironing board. Pressing seams is an art and you need to practice to get comfortable with it. Many beginners are not pressing and ironing enough before during and after their projects. I might be biased because of my tailoring heavy education but I think you should press and iron a lot. So many problems go away at the ironing board. And if you give your finished garment a good press when you are done sewing you will get a more professional result. Here's an in depth guide to pressing and ironing if you want to learn more.
8. Other things that are useful to have. Measuring tape. You need one, at least. I have 5 or six and I still have to look for them. You will need to measure a lot! A seam gauge is something I use a lot as well. I measure seam allowances with this thing and I measure small things that I don't need a large ruler for.
8. Pins and/or pattern weights. You will need something that can hold your pattern pieces in place when you're cutting your fabric. I use pins but I would like to upgrade to pattern weights instead.
9. Patience & passion. Sewing will test your patience. You will learn so much when you start making your own clothes. New techniques, new things about your body and your style and your patience. If you have the mindset that you don't have to know everything when you're new and that you can figure it out it will be so much fun. Take the opportunity to learn, to grow and to experiment. Don't be afraid to try and fail and try again. Don't think there's a "right" way to do everything - that will only hold you back. There's a time and a place for learning "proper technique" and the very beginning isn't it in my opinion. Fearless sewing means daring to test your theories and see what happens. I see too many beginners getting stuck in perfectionism and being too afraid to "do it wrong" to even get started. You have my permission to test & try anything and everything and seeing it as an opportunity to learn. Your first projects don't need to be perfect. Why would they be? How could they be? If you are just starting - it will be messy ...and that's ok :) It can only get better from there. I didn't learn "proper" sewing techniques until I started fashion school at 20 years old or so. At that time I had been sewing for over 10 years. It was super fun to learn to make everything neat and perfect - and I could really apply it because I had so many years of experience. But I made some really nice things before that too. What I'm saying is I want to encourage you to try some fearless sewing without the expectation of perfection. Think big! Just try something crazy and see what happens! You will learn so much in the process.
Do you have anything to add to this list? Let me know in the comments below.
Until next time,
Happy sewing!
/Josefine
Ploen Patterns
]]>If you follow me on instagram you might have seen some sneak peeks of the new space. I will do a proper tour once I have it all set up the way I want it. It's so much fun to plan and get it all organized and pretty. Can't wait to show you once it's less messy.
The main characters in this space are of course my sewing machines, my babies. I want to introduce them to you and talk a bit about each of them. And at the end I will let you know my future plans for sewing machines that I want to add to the family.
Let's start with the first machine I got. I bought this beauty in early 2015, when I had moved out from home and couldn't use my mom's machine anymore. By the way her machine is a Bernina 1008 and that's the machine I learned to sew on. I still love Berninas to this day and the 1008 is a great beginner machine!
Husqvarna Automatic CL21A. This is an awesome machine. It's a true work horse. Probably produced in the 60's? Please correct me if I'm wrong and you sit on some vintage sewing machine knowledge - I would love to know more about this machine. I know a lot of people in Sweden had these machines in school when they learned to sew in the 70's for example. It's a machine that many people recognize, including my dad, which was fun.
I love this machine because it's simple but very powerful. It sews the most beautiful straight seams and it purrs quietly as it works. It doesn't have a lot of fancy functions but it's great at its job and it's all metal which is a good thing. I had to replace the plug once (or rather ask my boyfriend to do it) when it started smoking (60's electricity, yay) but other than that it just WORKS, all the time. I take good care of it, oil it regularly and clean it from dust. My pride and joy :)
Janome My Lock 644D. This is my overlocker/serger. I bought it a few years after my Husqvarna machine. I wanted to have more of a professional finish on my garments and I love to sew jersey with this machine as well. This is a really good overlocker/serger. Nothing fancy like air threading or anything like that. It just works well and I like to use it. I have a few basic colours on my overlocker threads; white, black, navy, grey, beige & red. I have never really needed other colours but if I do I might add them as time goes on. White works quite often because most jersey fabrics I use are printed on a white base. I use this machine to finish raw edges and to sew jersey.
Singer coverstitch 14T970C. This is my latest addition to the family. It's a coverlock/coverstitch machine that can sew with 1, 2 or 3 needles. I use this for a professional and quick twin needle hem and for chain stitch (one needle stretchy seam). I bough this machine late 2019 to improve the quality of my jersey garments. I am not best friends with this machine yet but it's getting better. It feels a bit different than an overlocker/serger and it takes some getting used to. I also had some problems with the machine - it skipped stitches - but I changed the needles to new ones and that seems to have solved the problem. Almost. I need to try it some more and see if I can become best friends with it ;)
This machine can also be used for activewear which I wan to try soon.
This is what the twin needle hem looks like. Almost like and overlock seam on the wrong side and a twin-needle stitch on the right side of the fabric.
Those are the three sewing machines I own and I really like them! I bought all of them second hand (great way to save on machine purchase) and they work great. I have never taken any of them to get serviced even though I probably should one day. I take great care of them so I think that's why they still work so well. I oil them, clean them from dust and change needles regularly - that seems to be all they really need!
Future sewing machines...
You might think three machines is enough... and I agree, I can manage... but a girl has dreams! I can do everything I need to on these machines but I'm always thinking of possibilities of improvement. One thing I miss in my collection is a nice button hole option. The Husqvarna can sew button holes of course (using zigzag) but it's very far from automatic and effortless. So at the top of my sewing machine wishlist for the future is a nice machine with an automatic button hole feature. If any of you have any recommendations - please let me know!
And to finish this post off I want to say a few words about industrial sewing machines. These are the kinds of machines I used in fashion school and oh how I miss them. They are sturdy, super fast and super efficient. An industrial machine is the kind that is attached to a table. The kind of machines you will see in garment factories, sewing ateliers and fashion schools etc. Thread cutting straight seam machine, industrial overlocker and others. I want them all. This is not in the near future though - these machines are expensive. But if you're sewing for a living they are - if not essential - at least preferable to home sewing machines.
Image source: https://www.goldstartool.com/blog/top-industrial-sewing-machine-brands.htm
These industrial machines take up a lot of space too but now that space is no longer an issue this dream feels a bit closer than before!
What sewing machine(s) do you have? Are you satisfied with it or are you thinking about uplevelling? Which sewing machine is on your wishlist? Let me know in the comments below!
Have a wonderful day and I will talk to you soon.
♥ ♥ ♥
Josefine
Ploen Patterns
]]>I have always loved this season for some reason. The air is crisp and it's truly the season for coziness and slowing down. Cuddling up in the sofa with a blanket and a cup of tea... I love it! Candles, scarves and wool coats in every colour...? Yes please!
It depends on where in the world you live of course but here in Stockholm the weather turned from summer to autumn real fast. The sun is still warm the few times it comes out but lately we have had more rain and cold wind. How is it where you live? I know some of you live in Australia so of course it's completely different for you :)
In this week's blog post I'm talking about Autumn sewing. An alternative title for this blog post could be "My sewing plans if I had unlimited time". I always have a lot of sewing i would like to do but I rarely have time to do most of the things on my to-sew lists. Most of the time I choose to work on patterns for Ploen Patterns because I want to release new patterns! But every now and then I sew things from other indie designers and also some big 4 patterns. Today I'm going to share some things from that list! The patterns that are on my mind at the moment :)
1. Trench coat(s)
I love a good trench coat... just look at this vintage trench from Rohdi Heintz.
It's the Dixi Coat, one of his most famous garments. I think it's 70's. I love to wear this trench and I'm sad that I only have one... and I have never actually made a trench coat myself. So one of my dream sewing projects is a really nice trench coat with all of the details, fancy lining etc. Now let's see some pattern inspiration!
At the very top of my list is the Isla Trench Coat by Named. It ticks all the boxes... The design is perfect, all the right details... I would like to make it in a colour like cobalt blue, red or maybe yellow... or pink! Since I already have the classic beige one.
Some other beautiful trench coat patterns are The Taylor Trench by Rebecca Page, The Luzerne Trench Coat by Deer and Doe, The Robson Coat by Sewaholic and of course The Hendriks Coat by Make my Lemonade (this one is a close second... They are all beautiful but I really like the classic, long, structured versions and not the more feminine ones. I will definitely make a trench coat some day. I want to say I will make it this season but I'm pretty sure that's not going to be possible :(
2. Second on my wish list is the Sicily slip dress. This pattern has been ALL OVER my instagram feed. I mean there are some drop dead gorgeous versions out there to drool over. I think I actually might be able to sew this dress because it seams like a quick sew. Then I just need to wait for the pandemic to be over and I can go to Sicily and stroll around looking fine :D This pattern is from Sewing patterns by Masin. Might be more of a summery pattern but I also live the look of a slip dress with a chunky sweater and boots... Could definitely work for autumn too!
3. This is a project I might actually finish his season! It's the Abi Jumpsuit pattern from AK Patterns. I have chosen the fabric already! If you follow me on instagram you might have already seen this photo:
I'm planning to make the culotte version... so pretty! I have not made a jumpsuit in a very long time but I jus love the put together look of them. I like the idea of a jersey jumpsuit as well. So comfortable and easy to fit.
These three projects are just a tiny bit of my sewing dreams... there are so many more and I always add new ideas too. I have started on a shirt for my dad that I really want to finish. And i've promised my mom a little jacket too. And I'm sewing sweatpants for me and my boyfriend. Are you also feeling like you have so many ideas and not enough time to make them a reality? the only thing that helps for me is planning the projects out and sewing a little bit every day. One step closer all the time. However for me it goes in cycles. Right now I'm spending a lot of time creating toiles and developing new pattern. It has higher priority than sewing for my relatives and I'm ok with that. I just have to stop myself from adding too many additional projects to my plate for a while.
I will let you know more about my next pattern soon. Best place to get updates is instagram so make sure you follow me there.
Leave a comment below or send me an email (josefine@ploenpatterns.com) if you need help with anything or have any questions at all. I'm here for you!
♥ ♥ ♥
Josefine
Ploen Patterns
]]>Follow along step by step as I'm sewing the Eira top, view A!
Pattern: The Eira Top, PDF pattern
Suggested fabrics: Light to medium weight cotton jersey, viscose jersey or similar. Choose a fabric that is more on the firm than on the slippery side. At least 20% stretch on the crossgrain.
My fabric: I'm using a leftover sample fabric from the fashion brand where I work. Cotton/elastane jersey. 200 gsm. For reference.
Now let's get started! Make sure you have your pattern, fabric, thread and tools. And of course you need a sewing machine and scissors and all that good stuff. I'm using an overlocker too but if you don't have one a zigzag stitch on your regular machine will work just as well :)
Use a stretch needle in your sewing machine. When sewing with jersey this is important to not break the fabric accidentally. A stretch needle has a rounded point and "slides" through the knit fabric, not breaking threads on its way.
Print your pattern. Make sure your settings are set to “print actual size”, “100%” or “true to scale”. Do not add “fit to paper”. I find that Adobe Reader works best for printing. (It's free). On page 1 of the pattern you will find one test square that is 5 cm and one that is 1.5 inches. Start by only printing page 1. Measure your printed square to ensure your printer didn’t scale your pattern! When you are satisfied you can print the rest of the pattern. Assemble the pages, making sure the diamonds line up.
Prepare your fabric. Prewash your fabric the same way you intend to wash your finished garment. The reason for this step is to prevent shrinking and to detect any problems or kinks with the fabric before you use it. I have had some unpleasant surprises in the past with other fabrics where I've skipped this step and then washed my finished garment, only to find it a few sizes too small when I took it out of the machine... So don't skip this step ;)
Choose a size using the size guide. Choose the size that is closest to your bust measurement.
Fit: We all have different body shapes and just as with RTW clothes no garment or pattern is made for your exact body. I always suggest you make a toile* before you cut out your fancy fabric. That way you can make adjustments to have a pattern that fits you perfectly to use over and over again.
*A toile is an early version of a finished garment made up in cheap material so that the design can be tested and perfected.
Seam allowances of 0.6 cm, 1/4" are included in the pattern.
Now it’s time to cut or trace out your size! And then start with the actual steps! I cut out my size because I prefer that method. Feel free to trace on tracing paper if that's your jam!
STEP 1. Read through all the steps before you start! Place your pattern on the fabric and pin it in place making sure the grain line is right and there are no wrinkles underneath. Make sure everything is placed right before you cut! Seam allowances of 0.6 cm (1/4”) are included in the pattern. Look at the layplans (separate file) to get an idea of how to optimize your fabric amount for your size.
STEP 2. Mark notches by cutting into the seam allowances a few mm. Notches are marked as black triangles on the pattern pieces.
Also mark center front and center back on bodice pieces with a little cut.
STEP 3. Sew binding to the yoke pieces. Start by folding the binding wrong sides together lengthwise (a).
Place the binding to the right side of the yoke. Pin and sew the binding with an overlocker/serger stitch or zigzag. Then press the binding away from the yoke.
Yoke with binding:
4. Sew the yoke pieces right sides together with the lower back piece. Sew zigzag or overlock/serger seam. It’s helpful to baste the yoke in just a few stitches by hand or on your sewing machine to make sure the binded edges of the yoke are placed correctly at the center back before overlocking or serging.
Place yoke pieces right sides together with lower bodice piece.
Pin yoke pieces to bodice making sure the binding line up at center back like this:
Baste in place. II used a straight stitch on my sewing machine.
Now this part will stay put when you sew the pieces together.
Then overlock/serge or zigzag the pieces together.
Now you have the back pieces connected:
And this is what it looks like from the right side:
STEP 5. Sew shoulder seams. Place back and front pieces right sides together and sew together with zigzag or overlock/serger seam. 0.6 cm (1/4”) seam allowance.
STEP 6. Attach the sleeves to the bodice. Place the sleeves right sides together with the bodice.
Match up the sleeve notch with the shoulder seam.
Sew zigzag or overlock/serger seam.
STEP 7. Sew side seams. Place right sides together matching notches and armhole seams.
Sew zigzag or overlock/serger seam from bodice hem to sleeve hem.
STEP 8. Sew the hem of the bodice and the sleeve. Overlock all around the bottom hem and the sleeve hems.
Then fold up 1 cm (3/8”) and stitch down with twin needle seam or zigzag. If you have a coverstich machine you can do all this in one step.
Give the hems a good press and then they’re done.
STEP 9. Staystitch neckline to prevent it from being stretched out. Pin and sew the neckline binding right side to the wrong side of the bodice.
Match the center front and center back notches on the binding to the center front and center back of the bodice. Use these notches a a guide rather than a law. It depends on what fabric you use. Pin first and see if it looks good.
Stretch less or more depending on how much stretch your fabric has. You might need to adjust the center back notches depending on fabric. Use an overlocker/serger or zigzag seam.
Make sure you stretch the binding a little bit when you sew the neckline. The bodice should not be stretched out at all.
Then fold the binding twice.
Topstitch in place with a twin needle stitch. If you don’t have a twin needle you can use a zigzag stitch. I used stitch length 3 on my machine. You don't want the stitch length to be too short when sewing with a twin needle in jersey.
The binding continues to form the ties.
Continue the topstitching to the end of the ties. Fold the ends in to themselves before backstitching to secure it all.
Fold the end of the ribbon before sewing the twin needle stitch to the end. This creates a clean finish, secured at the end.
Then it's all done! Tie the neck ties into a bow, press the seams if needed and wear your Eira top with pride!
This is a great everyday top. So comfy :)
Love the bow detail:
Let me know if you want a sewalong for Eira view B too :)
Leave a comment below or send me an email (josefine@ploenpatterns.com) if you need help with anything or have any questions at all. I'm here for you!
♥ ♥ ♥
Josefine
Ploen Patterns
]]>Pattern: Betty dress from Sew over it
Pattern alterations: Read about all the alterations I have made to this bodice pattern here.
Fabric: I used a vintage sheet as fabric for this dress.
Cardigan: I wore this Lisa Comfort cardigan in red and I love the combo :)
Photographer: My boyfriend.
Photo Location: My parents wonderful garden when we visited them for mother's day.
I really like this vintage sheet - the big pink flowers and the softness of the fabric. I did some changes to the pattern as you might be able to tell. The bodice is fully lined instead of the all in one facing the pattern has. The fabric was a little bit too thin so I cut 2 bodices. One in the pink outer fabric and one of a solid white cotton fabric (aslo an old sheet). I sewed the bodices separately except center back seam and then sewed them right sides together and turned. I like the result!
I added a big and long gathered skirt instead of the circle skirt that comes with the pattern. I wanted a lot of fullness. The skirt is basically a very long rectangle piece. Actually 4 pieces because the fabric didn't have enough width. The skirt has a center front seam but you can't really tell and it doesn't bother me at all. I made the skirt 73 cm long. I also added an exposed zipper in the back since I didn't have any invisible zippers on hand.
I still have a little bit of gaping at the back and the armhole is a little bit tight at the front so I might do a few tweaks before I make my next version. I will for sure make more Betty dresses :D
It's a great pattern to use for your cotton fabrics. I have loads of old vintage sheets and other cotton fabrics that are waiting to be made in to clothes. This is my top pick of pattern to use for that! :)
Have you tried the Betty pattern? What did you think?
Let me know in the comments below!
Have a wonderful day everyone and I will talk to you soon <3
♥ ♥ ♥
Josefine
Ploen Patterns
]]>
Let's get sewing!
What you will need (affiliate links):
♥ PDF print at home FREE Download, subscribe to get the pattern
♥ Fabric, I used a scrap fabric I had in my stash.
♥ Matching thread (best thread)
♥ 0.6-1 cm (1/4-1/2") wide elastic. 16-20 cm (6-8") long. This one for example.
♥ Regular sewing machine
♥ Hand sewing needle. Example.
♥ A large safety pin, like this for example.
♥ Scissors or rotary cutter
♥ If you are using a rotary cutter like me you will also need a cutting mat. This is similar tothe one I'm using: Link.
*Scroll down for the video tutorial on how to make the scrunchie with added ties*
Cut out your fabric. Seam allowance is included in the pattern. Cut the tie if you want to add that. Cut a 16-20 cm (6-8") length of the elastic.
Fold fabric lengthwise right sides together. Pin. Use a 0.5cm (1/4") seam allowance on all seams.
Sew the folded fabric. Start and end at the notches. Don't sew all the way.
Turn the fabric tube inside out.
Then sew the short sides of the fabric right sides together to close the tube and make a circle.
Now you have a circular shape with an opening.
Insert the elastic using a safety pin to be able to feed it through the circle.
Place the ends of the elastic on top of each other and sew them together. You can do this by hand or with the sewing machine. Sew back and forth a few times and make sure it feels secure. You don't want them to break apart.
Close the gap in the circle either with a straight stitch on the sewing machine or by hand. I chose to sew on the machine for this one.
You can turn the sewn edge to the middle of the scrunchie if you like. I did that to get a more clean look.
Then you're done!
Video tutorial:
That's all for today guys! I hope you enjoyed this tutorial.
Leave a comment below or send me an email (josefine@ploenpatterns.com) if you need help with anything or have any questions at all :)
♥ ♥ ♥
Josefine
Ploen Patterns
]]>So let's make a skirt!
What you will need:
♥ The Vera Pattern. Skirt piece, pocket piece and skirt ruffle piece.
♥ Fabric
♥ Matching thread
♥ 4 cm (1.5") wide elastic
♥ Regular sewing machine
♥ Overlock/serger for finishing edges. You can also use the zigzag stitch on your regular sewing machine.
My fabric: I'm using this fabric from Storrs London called Stone (in blue) for my Vera skirt hack. In collaboration with them I am offering you a discount code for 30% off your purchase! How great is that? Use code PLOEN30 at checkout when buying any of their gorgeous cotton lawn fabrics!
STEP 1
Cut out your pieces: skirt front, skirt back, ruffle pieces and pocket pieces. Cut your elastic. Try it on your waist and adjust it to your liking. It should be smaller than your waist. It stretches out when you wear it. If it's too big it will not stay up. Add a wide seam allowance.
STEP 2
How to make the waistband. Measure the waist of your skirt pieces. That's the length of the waistband. Cut one front and one back. The height of the waistband is determined by the width of your elastic. My elastic is 4 cm (1.5") wide so my waistband pieces will be 4*2 + seam allowance. I use a 1 cm (3/8") seam allowance so the total height of my waistband pieces is 10 cm.
STEP 3
Overlock/serge or zigzag around the skirt pieces, all around the pocket pieces and ruffle pieces.
STEP 4
Place the pocket pouches right sides together with the skirt pieces. The front skirt should have one pocket to the left and one to the right and the back pieces should have a pocket along the side seam, right sides together.
Sew the pocket to the skirt. Start and end 1cm (3/8") from the edge. Use a little smaller seam allowance than 1cm (3/8"). Just inside of that measurement.
Press pocket away from the skirt.
Place back skirt piece right sides together with front skirt. Match the front skirt to the back skirt at the side seam. Pin right sides together making sure the pockets line up.
STEP 5
In one continuous stitch, sew from the waistline to your pocket stitch, pivot and sew around the pocket and pivot again and then continue to the hem.
STEP 6
Clip the seam allowances like this. Press the pocket towards the center front. Press the seam allowances open above and below the pocket.
Press seam allowances open.
STEP 7
Sew the ruffle pieces together at the side seams and press the seam allowances open. Cresting a big circular piece.
STEP 8
Sew two lines of gathering stitch to the top of the ruffle pieces. Gather it up and attach to the skirt piece. Sew right sides together between the gathering stitches and then remove them.
STEP 9
Sew the waistband pieces right sides together at the side seams.
Press seam allowances open.
Fold the waistband wrong sides together and then place it to the right side of the skirt. Stitch them together with 1cm (3/8") seam allowance and then stitch again with overlock/serge.
Leave a gap to put the elastic through. Use a safety pin to make it easier to feed the elastic through the waistband.
Feed the elastic all the way through the waistband.
When you have come all the way around stitch the elastics together, overlapping each other. Make sure the elastic isn't twisted before sewing them together.
Close the gap on the waistband - sew just like you did before, only this time the elastic is inside.
Distribute the fabric evenly and then secure the elastic in place. Stitch in the ditch at the side seams to stop the elastic from twisting inside the waistband.
Then it's time to hem the skirt. Fold twice, press and then stitch.
Press the skirt - then it's done!
Now wear your Vera skirt with pride! :)
Don’t forget to share your make, and when you do so - don’t forget to use the
hashtag #PPVera so others (and I) can find it on social media :)
Leave a comment below or send me an email (josefine@ploenpatterns.com) if you need help with anything or have any questions at all :)
♥ ♥ ♥
Josefine
Ploen Patterns
]]>
You can find part 1 of the sewalong here.
Freja is my free PDF sewing pattern and also the first pattern I ever created. I have learned a lot since then and I have also extended my size range. Freja is now available in the complete Ploen Patterns size range (12 sizes). To celebrate this I thought it would be a great time to create a sewalong blog series. Let's go!
Freja dress PDF Pattern.
My fabric: I'm using this fabric from Storrs London called Isabel Navy Multi for my Freja dress. In collaboration with them I am offering you a discount code for 20% off your purchase! How great is that? Use code PLOEN1 at checkout when buying any of their gorgeous cotton lawn fabrics!
STEP 12
Now sew side seams and the center back seam right sides together. Making sure the armhole seams match. And that the back neckline seams match. This can be tricky so make sure to check an extra time and pin a needle where the seams meet. Press seam allowances, turn to right side and press again.
Sew the side seam:
Clip to reduce bulk:
Press seam allowances open:
Do the same to the center back seam and then turn. Press the whole bodice again.
STEP 13
This is a good time to do the topstitching of your choice - or skip it. Do take into consideration that your garment will be easier to wash and press if you have some kind of stitching around edges to ensure that everything stays in place. However it’s not necessary if you prefer ‘that clean look’. Topstitch 0.1 cm - 2 cm from the edge, or however wide you want it to be! On the Freja dress sketch it’s quite a wide topstitching around the neck and none on the armholes. On my version this time I skipped the topstitching. I think it would look great if you use a solid fabric for your Freja for example. Topstitching wouldn't really do anything for this print and I wanted to keep it clean.
Note: This is not in the original instructions but it is helpful to baste the bodice and the bodice lining together at this point to keep both layers in place before attaching the waistbands.
STEP 14
Assemble both waistband pieces and bodice piece into a “hamburger” like this for the front piece and the back piece. Sew together. The bodices are now sewn together at the sides all the way to the waistbands where they hang loose. This is to provide loops for the belt to pass through.
Place the outer waistband piece right sides together with the bodice. Place the inner waistband piece on the other side of the bodice (right side of waist piece to right side of bodice lining). This might be confusing. Try to pin and fold over to see that it looks correct.
Press waistbands down away from the bodice.
STEP 15
Overlock side seams and back seam on the skirt pieces.
If you don't add pockets: sew skirt pieces together (center back and side seams). If you are adding pockets - only sew the center back seam of the skirt. Then start by placing the pocket pouches right sides together with the skirt pieces. I placed mine 10 cm down from the waistline. The front skirt should have one pocket to the left and one to the right and the back pieces should have a pocket along the side seam, right sides together.
Sew the pocket to the skirt. Start and end 1cm (3/8") from the edge. Use a little smaller seam allowance than 1cm (3/8"). Just inside of that measurement.
Press pocket away from the skirt.
Place back skirt piece right sides together with front skirt. Match the front skirt to the back skirt at the side seam. Pin right sides together making sure the pockets line up. In one continuous stitch, sew from the waistline to your pocket stitch, pivot and sew around the pocket and pivot again and then continue to the hem.
Clip the seam allowances like this. Press the pocket toward the center front. Press the seam allowances open above and below the pocket.
STEP 16
Sew ‘inside’ waistband piece (1) together with skirt piece. Press seam allowance of ‘outside’ waistband piece (2) down.
Pin the outer waistband to skirt piece to create the loop for the belt. Make sure the openings at the side seams are neat and even.
Topstitch in place from the right side of the dress.
STEP 17
Press. Everything.
STEP 18
Fold the belt pieces lengthwise. Sew around the edge and leave a gap open to be able to turn the belt.
Cut corners to reduce bulk and ideally press seam allowances on the point presser before turning.
Turn the belt to the right side.
Press the belt. Then Topstitch around the whole belt. Conveniently closing the gap in the process. Repeat this process for the second belt.
STEP 19
Hem the skirt. Since I added 2 cm seam allowance I fold 1cm twice. Then I stitched it down from the wrong side of the fabric.
Sew the hem:
Pull the belts through the waist. I used a big safety pin to make it easier to feed the belt through. Tie the bows at the side!
STEP 20
Final pressing! DONE!!! Now wear your Freja dress with pride :)
Don’t forget to share your make on social media!
#PPFrejaDress @ploenpatterns
Hope you enjoyed the sewalong :)
Leave a comment below or send me an email (josefine@ploenpatterns.com) if you need help with anything or have any questions at all. I'm here for you!
♥ ♥ ♥
Josefine
Ploen Patterns
]]>
Freja is my free PDF sewing pattern and also the first pattern I ever created. I have learned a lot since then and I have also extended my size range. Freja is now available in the complete Ploen Patterns size range (12 sizes). To celebrate this I thought it would be a great time to create a sewalong blog series. Let's go!
What you will need:
Freja dress PDF Pattern.
♥ Fabric (You will need at least 1.75m, 1.9 yards).
♥ Thread
♥ Regular sewing machine
♥ Overlock/serger for finishing edges. You can also use the zigzag stitch on your regular sewing machine.
♥ Iron + point presser (optional).
Suggested fabrics: medium weight woven fabrics such as chambray denim, cotton drill, gabardine, light canvas, light wool, linen, medium weight viscose/rayon.
If you choose a lighter weight fabric and don’t use any interfacing on the neckline it might lose its shape and don't stand up - which isn’t necessarily a problem - just another look. Use a smoother surface rather than a lot of structure for the belt to run smoothly through the loop.
My fabric: I'm using this fabric from Storrs London called Isabel Navy Multi for my Freja dress. In collaboration with them I am offering you a discount code for 20% off your purchase! How great is that? Use code PLOEN1 at checkout when buying any of their gorgeous cotton lawn fabrics!
STEP 1
Read through all the steps before you start!
Choose a size using the guide. This design doesn’t require extremely perfect fit, so choose the size that is closest to your bust and hips. Waist is flexible. However I always suggest you make a toile before you cut in your fancy fabric.
A toile is an early version of a finished garment made up in cheap material so that the design can be tested and perfected.
STEP 2
Print the pattern. Make sure your settings are set to “print to actual size”, “100%” or “true to scale”. Do not add “fit to paper”. In the pattern you will find a test square that is 5 * 5 cm (1.5 x 1.5"). Measure your printed square to ensure your printer didn’t scale your pattern! When you have printed your pattern assemble it like this layout.
STEP 3
Now it’s time to cut or trace out your size. If you know you would like to try to make more than one size it’s a better idea to trace your size on tracing paper right from
the beginning. However if you know your size you can cut out and then should you still want to make another size further along the line you can print it out again! That’s the perks of a PDF pattern! Just make sure you don’t waste paper just to waste paper if you get me ;)
I chose to add pockets to this version of the Freja dress I'm making. I used the pocket pattern piece form my Vera dress pattern, you can find it here if you want to add pockets to your Freja too :)
You will need 4 pocket pieces (2 pairs).
STEP 4
Place your pattern on the fabric and pin it down making sure the grain line is right and there are no wrinkles underneath. Make sure everything is placed right before you cut! Then cut out fabric with seam allowance as follows: 1 cm or 3/8" around every piece.
EXCEPT the hem line. There you should add 5 cm or 2 inches to get the same look as in the FREJA dress illustration. You could add 1 cm here as well, but that would provide a different look to the garment. If you choose 5 cm remember to adjust the side line like this:
I chose to add a 2cm seam allowance to my version so I can do a double fold hem with a clean finish.
STEP 5
Mark your notches and seam lines if you’d like. I usually don’t mark my seam lines. Rather I make sure to cut the seam allowances very accurate and then just use my Pfiffikus (sewing gauge) as a guide. If you have been sewing for a while your eye might be trained to follow a specific measurement and you can do so without a guide. If you are a beginner it might be a good idea to mark your seam line. It’s up to you.
Cut a few millimeters in to the fabric to mark dart notches and to mark center front, center back etc.
I mark the dart point with a pin. It doesn’t leave a mark like chalk or a pen
would.
Then I put another pin to mark the dart point on the other side of the piece.
Then fold the dart, match up the notches at the dart legs and pin.
Draw or pin the seam line of the dart.
STEP 6
Sew bust darts and back darts. I like to put a pin at the dart point to mark it. Sew the darts on both shell bodice piece and lining piece. Press bust darts down and back darts towards center back.
STEP 7
Overlock/serge or zigzag short edges of the 4 waistband pieces. Press down and sew edges like this.
STEP 8
Sew bodice shoulder seams on shell and lining pieces separately. Place front and back bodices right sides together. No need to overlock edges. There’s going to be one shell piece and one lining piece sewn together. It will look something like this:
Press seam allowances apart:
STEP 9
You now have two identical bodices. Pin them right sides together. Measure the center front opening length (indicated on the pattern piece). Mark with a pin.
Sew right sides together except side seams and waistline. Sew around armholes and neckline. No need to overlock or zigzag here either. Make sure shoulder seams match up.
STEP 10
Neckline. Sew with half seam allowance into a point like this:
STEP 11
Cut seam allowances to reduce bulk and ensure a clean finish.
Then press the seam allowances open. For this step it’s great to have a point presser or tailor's anvil.
Then you can turn the bodice to the right side (back pieces
goes through shoulders. Then press everything like you normally would.
That's it for Part 1. Go to Part 2.
Leave a comment below or send me an email (josefine@ploenpatterns.com) if you need help with anything or have any questions at all. I'm here for you!
♥ ♥ ♥
Josefine
Ploen Patterns
]]>
Part 3 - Last part
Pattern: The Vera Dress, PDF pattern
My fabric: I'm using this fabric from Storrs London called Chelsea garden (in yellow) for my Vera dress. In collaboration with them I am offering you a discount code for 20% off your purchase! How great is that? Use code PLOEN1 at checkout when buying any of their gorgeous cotton lawn fabrics!
This is Part 3 of the sewalong. Read part 1 here and part 2 here.
STEP 14. Pockets. Sew pocket right sides together with skirt. Start and end 1cm, 3/8” from the pocket edge (a). Pocket placements are marked on the skirt pieces. Then press the pocket and seam allowances away from the skirt (b). Repeat with all 4 pocket pieces.
STEP 15. Match the front skirt to the back skirt at the side seam. Pin right sides together, notches and pocket pieces aligned (a). In one continuous stitch, sew from the waistline to your pocket stitch, pivot and sew around the pocket and pivot again and then continue to the hem. (b).
STEP 16. Clip the seam allowances like this. Press the pocket toward the center front. Press the seam allowances open above and below the pocket.
STEP 17. Attach skirt part of the dress to the bodice, right sides together. Sew with 1cm, 3/8” seam allowance.
STEP 18. Sew your waist elastic to the seam allowances at the waist, on the inside of the dress. Mark 1/4 all through the length of the elastic. Match up the 1/4 points with CB, side seam, CF, side seam and CB seam of the dress. Place the elastic on top of the seam allowance and sew with a zigzag stitch through all the layers. Stretch the elastic out as you go to match the fabric. When you have sewn all around the waist it should look beautifully ruffled and no stitches showing on the outside of the dress.
I'm sorry to confuse you with a different fabric for this step (forgot to take photos of this step with the yellow fabric).
STEP 19. Sew CB seam up to the notch. Press seam allowance open.
STEP 20. Topstitch around CB opening to keep all seam allowances in place. Sew on the button of your choice. The distance from the fabric edges should be the same as the diameter of your button.
STEP 21. Hem the sleeves and bottom hem with a double fold. 0.5 cm + 0.5 cm, 1/4” + 1/4”. This creates a clean finish on the inside.
Aaaand done!
Now wear your Vera dress with pride! :)
Don’t forget to share your make, and when you do so - don’t forget to use the
hashtag #PPVera so others (and I) can find it on social media :)
Leave a comment below or send me an email (josefine@ploenpatterns.com) if you need help with anything or have any questions at all :)
♥ ♥ ♥
Josefine
Ploen Patterns
Part 2 - Sleeves
Pattern: The Vera Dress, PDF pattern
My fabric: I'm using this fabric from Storrs London called Chelsea garden (in yellow) for my Vera dress. In collaboration with them I am offering you a discount code for 20% off your purchase! How great is that? Use code PLOEN1 at checkout when buying any of their gorgeous cotton lawn fabrics!
This is Part 2 of the sewalong. Read part 1 here.
In part 1 we made all the cutting and preparations needed. Now let's get sewing for real!
STEP 7. Press the sleeve. Press line is marked on the sleeve pattern.Then sew the channel for the elastic to go through.
The first seam is next to the overlocked edge, 1 cm, 3/8” seam allowance. And the second seam determines how wide the channel will become. The channel needs to be a little bit wider than your elastic.
A 1 cm, 3/8” wide elastic is used for this pattern so the channel is 1.5 cm, 1/2” wide. That’s enough to make the elastic slide through smoothly. You can use a different width but make sure you create a channel that is wide enough. 1.5 cm, 1/2” sewing line is marked on the pattern.
STEP 8. Put your elastic through the channel on the sleeve. Use a large safety pin to slide it through easily.
Secure the elastic in the seam allowance where you began with some stitching back and forth.
Then sew the elastic in place on the other side of the sleeve as well. Distribute the fabric evenly on the sleeve. This creates the ruffle effect.
STEP 9. Button loop. You can use a ribbon or elastic loop. Make sure it can go around your button easily before you sew it on. You can add some extra seam allowance to the loop length, make sure it’s not too short so it sits securely in place. Place the button loop on the right side of the facing or bodice piece, baste in place 1 cm, 3/8” from neckline. The loop should be facing towards the garment. Once turned inside out it will be facing away from the bodice and it can be buttoned.
STEP 10. Place the facings on top of the bodice right sides together and stitch all around the neckline and armhole. This will create a clean finish. Sew from notch to notch at the armhole. Leave the last parts of the facings loose. They will be attached later.
STEP 11. Cut into the seam allowance to make the curves easier to shape and turn.
Snip off excess fabric on opening at back.
Press the seam allowances open as good as you can. It can be a bit tricky. You can use a point presser where it’s hard to reach on the ironing board. Then turn the bodice right side out. Pull the back pieces through the front pieces through the shoulders. Press everything and make sure it all looks smooth and even. Then turn again to be able to attach the sleeve.
STEP 12. Baste the sleeve to the bodice. Since side seams have not been sewn yet it’s only a short distance to sew. The sleeve has no back or front
so put any end of the sleeve right sides together with the bodice. You will see where the curve of the bodice armhole lines up with the curve of the sleeve arm- hole. Sandwich the sleeve between the bodice and the facing. Sew facing and bodice right sides together with the sleeve in between. This is where the last parts of the facing gets attached. Make sure the side seam of the bodice matches the seams of the sleeve.
Repeat on the other side of the sleeve and then on the opposite sleeve. You will do this a total of 4 times. 2 times per sleeve. Press seam allowances upwards (towards facing).
It will look something like this so far:
STEP 13. Sew the side seams from the hem of the sleeve to the hem of the bodice right sides together. Press the seam allowances open. Leave only the CB seam open.
That's it for today!
Next time in part 3 we will be sewing the pockets, elasticated waist and finishing up the rest of the dress. See you then for the last part of the sewalong! :)
Leave a comment below or send me an email (josefine@ploenpatterns.com) if you need help with anything or have any questions at all :)
♥ ♥ ♥
Josefine
Ploen Patterns
Part 1: Preparations
Pattern: The Vera Dress, PDF pattern
Suggested fabrics: light weight woven fabrics such as cotton lawn, voile, challis. And light weight viscose/rayon with a nice drape.
My fabric: I'm using this fabric from Storrs London called Chelsea garden (in yellow) for my Vera dress. In collaboration with them I am offering you a discount code for 20% off your purchase! How great is that? Use code PLOEN1 at checkout when buying any of their gorgeous cotton lawn fabrics!
Now let's get started! Make sure you have your pattern, fabric, thread, button, elastic and button loop, details of the quantities are in the pattern instructions. And of course you need a sewing machine and scissors and all that good stuff. I'm using an overlocker too but if you don't have one a zigzag stitch on your regular machine will work just as well :)
Print your pattern. Make sure your settings are set to “print actual size”, “100%” or “true to scale”. Do not add “fit to paper”. I find that Adobe Reader works best for printing. (It's free). On page 1 of the pattern you will find one test square that is 5 cm and one that is 1.5 inches. Start by only printing page 1. Measure your printed square to ensure your printer didn’t scale your pattern! When you are satisfied you can print the rest of the pattern. Assemble the pages, making sure the diamonds line up.
Prepare your fabric. Prewash your fabric the same way you intend to wash your finished garment. The reason for this step is to prevent shrinking and to detect any problems or kinks with the fabric before you use it. I washed my Storrs fabric at 40 degrees Celsius as instructed and it worked wonders. Not a lot of shrinkage and the colours and shine of the fabric remained. However I have had some unpleasant surprises in the past with other fabrics where I've skipped this step and then washed my finished garment, only to find it a few sizes too small when I took it out of the machine... So don't skip this step ;)
Choose a size using the size guide. Choose the size that is closest to your bust measurement.
Fit: We all have different body shapes and just as with RTW clothes no garment or pattern is made for your exact body. I always suggest you make a toile* before you cut out your fancy fabric. That way you can make adjustments to have a pattern that fits you perfectly to use over and over again.
*A toile is an early version of a finished garment made up in cheap material so that the design can be tested and perfected.
Seam allowances of 1 cm, 3/8" are included in the pattern.
Now it’s time to cut or trace out your size! And then start with the actual steps! I cut out my size because I prefer that method. Feel free to trace if that's your jam!
STEP 1. Place your pattern on the fabric and pin it in place making sure the grain line is right and there are no wrinkles underneath. Make sure everything is placed right before you cut!
STEP 2. Mark notches and fold line start and finish points by cutting into the fabric. Mark dart points with chalk, pins or a few stitches by hand.
STEP 3. Sew bust darts. Start at the edge of the fabric and end at the dart tip. Leave long strands of thread so it doesn’t unravel. You can tie them in to a knot to make it extra secure. Press the dart down towards waist. I mark the dart point with a pin and draw a pencil line lightly to mark the seam.
STEP 4. Staystitch around the curved neckline and armscye to prevent the fabric from stretching out. 0.5 cm, 1/4” from the edge. Use a regular seam length on your sewing machine.
STEP 5. Sew shoulder seams of the bodice pieces together with a 1cm, 3/8” seam allowance. Press seams open. Repeat on shoulder seams of the facing.
STEP 6. Overlock (serge) or zigzag around sleeve and side seams of bodice pieces.
Overlock armhole to the markings (notches) on the pattern. Overlock pockets. Overlock around facing edge. Overlock CB (center back) seams.
That's it for today! Next time we will start on the sleeves! See you then <3
Leave a comment below or send me an email (josefine@ploenpatterns.com) if you need help with anything or have any questions at all. I'm here for you!
♥ ♥ ♥
Josefine
Ploen Patterns
A hot topic that can create a lot of confusion, guilt and the feeling that you just want to give up. At least that's the case for me sometimes. I work in the fashion industry as a garment technician and production manager for a small Swedish brand. The topic of sustainability comes up all the time in discussions at work. That's a good thing because it means the company I work for cares and wants to make good decisions but it can feel like a never ending wormhole of confusion and unanswered questions most of the time.
Some time ago I tried to focus on switching to better materials for our fabric qualities (tencel, anything other than cotton, recycled materials etc) and then went to a sustainability workshop and learned that all efforts might've been in vain because the material is not the biggest problem we are facing and there are so many components and aspects to take in to account.
Taken from Mistra Future Fashion's report: "The common separation into “good” and “bad” fibers, based on generic classifications of fiber types, is too simplified.
A much more nuanced view is needed in which the separation rather is done between producers with or without appropriate environmental management, and poor or better uses of the fiber. This measurement must account for the environmental performance throughout the entire life cycle of the final textile product.
In other words, a t-shirt made from organic cotton or recycled material does not automatically become a more sustainable t-shirt compared to a fossil based textile product. Organic farming is a good start, but one must also calculate for the resources used during the entire life cycle. If the factories completing the spinning, weaving, color and sewing part is run on fossil fuel the impact from these processes is larger than the impact from the textile fiber alone.
The differences between site specific suppliers of textile fibers are often greater than differences between fiber types. For example, the difference in climate impact between the best and worse cotton fiber is greater than the average difference in climate impact between cotton and viscose. Implementing best use practices throughout the production chain is right now a more pressing issue than fiber content."
Mistra future fashion is a cross-disciplinary research program based in Sweden (their website is in English too, so have a look). 8 years of research is published in to reports and information you can download for free. It's great not only for industry people but for consumers as well, and it's very interesting as a member of the sewing community too. I've had the opportunity to go to lectures and workshops with them and I've learned so much. Textile is a vast subject and there's always something new to learn.
Well, what's the best thing we can do for the planet? Die. Well.... most of us don't want to do that so we better figure out a better way :) The first step is to get educated, be interested and open and see that we as individuals can do something but no one can do everything.
It gets overwhelming and sometimes I just feel defeated and that there's no right way to do anything. My friends ask me why I want to work in such a "bad" industry and I say it's because I want to make it better. That's the simple answer. The fast fashion industry is not going away and if I can be a small part in contributing to a more sustainable fashion industry then wow, it's all worth it, right? And another reason: I love it. That should count for something too you might think.
What does any of this have to do with you, you might wonder? I think about sustainability regarding the sewing industry a lot as well. Sewing in and of itself is not sustainable. That's it, that's the truth. Sewing your own clothes is not sustainable. BUT there are less and more sustainable ways of sewing as a hobby. The planet has enough clothes as it is. We don't need to produce more clothes - yet we do, and it won't stop. We will want to create more clothes in this world so we better do it in the best way possible. We want new things, we use sewing as a creative outlet, we express ourselves with clothing and fashion. I think that's a good thing and I don't want to quit. I also want to be able to continue my sewing practice without feeling the quilt, and I would guess it's the same for you. So I'm trying to find ways to lessen my impact on the climate. The easiest way is fabric sourcing. I try not o buy more fabric than I think I can use. I took a one year break from fabric shopping, you can read about it here. I think about the clothes I'm making and I want them to be clothes that I will reach for again and again. After all the most environmentally conscious thing to do is to use what you have. Use the fabrics that you already have instead of buying more. Use the clothes that you have. Thrift fabrics when possible. Sheets, tablecloths, curtains... they make excellent dresses and are great for toile-making. Buy recycled fibers (recycled polyester, cotton etc). Recycled saves natural resources BUT the fibers go through a very high consumption energy and water process to get recycled so it's not that good but a little bit better. Organic cotton for example uses a lot of water but the toxins are less which is good for everyone involved. It doesn't save energy and water though, so it's not a perfect solution. And you also have to be conscious about the fact that where the cotton comes from (where it's grown) can be more important than wether it's organic or not... however as a customer buying just a couple meters to sew a garment for yourself it can be very hard, if not impossible to get this information from suppliers. Even as a small fashion brand buying thousands of meters of fabric per year it can still be very, very difficult to get your questions answered. That's not a reason not to ask questions though. If more people ask the hard questions we will get closer to a conscious, ethical and more eco-friendly fabric production. Consumers have power, even if it doesn't feel like it. The textile industry is shifting. Just 5-10 years ago there were almost no organic, recycled or even OEKO-TEX fabrics on the market but now everyone knows about it and it's not a weird question to ask if the fabric supplier has some sustainable options. However we have a long way to go for the supply chain to be transparent. Where is your cotton grown, spun, weaved, dyed etc? Those are still questions asked by the "annoying" people (like me). Some day it will be standard information known to anyone who wants to know. But it's going to take some time I'm afraid. At last it's moving in the right direction.
All this to say I think that the main thing we can think about as sewers is how much we are consuming freshly produced fabrics and how many garments we really need. Will you wear it? Same as you would ask for your ready to wear clothes when you are doing a wardrobe cleanse. Trying to source fabrics locally is another great idea. Support your local fabric shop instead of buying from another country/continent. The less shipping the better.
This is a scale from best to worst when it comes to clothes, from Frederique
I think one point that is often overlooked when talking about sewing being sustainable or not is the labor aspect. The production. It's not all about the fibers.
A huge benefit of making your own clothes is that you know that they are made in good conditions (as good as you make them), by someone who wants to be sewing and the clothes are made with love and passion. I mean this point alone should be enough for anyone to want to sew their own me made wardrobe. There are so many places in the world where clothes are made under horrific working conditions and most people just close their eyes and don't want to dig deeper. If everyone knew how their fast fashion clothes were made they wouldn't buy them so happily I'm sure...
Thinking about all this can get very depressing but it's the truth and it needs to be talked about. I'm sure you who are reading this already know because you already have an interest in how clothes are made. But I'm often amazed that consumers of fast fashion don't even know that there are people making their clothes. Some people just think fashion is some automated process using mainly machines...
Quality is another thing to consider. By making your own clothes you have 100% control. You can choose the best materials that will last you a lifetime and sew them in the best way possible.
In conclusion; sewing is not sustainable, but in many ways it's so much better than buying RTW. So please continue making your own clothes :)
You can make quality items that would cost a fortune to buy in the store, in the comfort of your own home. That's amazing! And you can wear them with pride knowing you made them yourself. They might not be helping the environment; but guess what - no clothes do that! Of course you want to wear something, so you might as well wear clothes you made yourself and that you made with love and care and attention to detail and quality. And sometimes, you might just sew because it's your hobby, your creative outlet and because it's FUN! And that's OK.
So what about my wardrobe? I still buy ready-to-wear sometimes. But I don't buy bad quality fast fashion. I buy something that I know I will wear and that I don't know how to make myself or don't have time to make. I buy quality and try to find timeless pieces. Other than that I try to do as much loving of what I have as I can. I mend my clothes when they need it. I hang my clothes outside instead of washing after every wear. I I hang everything to dry and almost never use the tumble dryer (European thing?). And finally I gravitate towards a me made wardrobe, one item at a time. I use the fabrics I have in my stash or I go thrifting for fabrics and I alter clothes. I make sure I make clothes that I need and want and that I know I will wear. If they fit me perfectly and I like the design, the fabric and the over all garment I think that's great!
Clothes shouldn't be disposable! I think we as humans need to move away from the concept of clothes being something "disposable" to being an item of value that we take care of and cherish. A positive consequence of making your own clothes is that you put your time and effort in to creating it so it will be less likely that you think of it as a disposable item. You also have a bigger understanding about what clothes should actually cost. If something is super cheap that means someone had to pay along the way... that's also the theme in the documentary "The True Cost". Have you seen it?
♥ Resources for further information:
♥ The fashion industry is one of the biggest polluting industry in the world. But have you ever heard it's the second biggest? Well, turns out that's fake news... read more.
♥ The fast fashion documentary that everyone needs to watch. The True Cost, directed by Andrew Morgan. He began the work after the Rana plaza building collapse in Bangladesh in 2013.
♥ The organisation Fashion Revolution has some great resources. You might know that they want everyone to ask "Who made my clothes?". But the do so much more than that and there are many ways to get involved.
♥ "Sustainability In the Slow Fashion and Home Sewing Industry" Great article by Saki Jane for Seamwork.
♥ "Interested in sustainable sewing?" Another great article to read. Written by Kate from Time to Sew for Sewcialists.
♥ SUSTAINABILITY VS SEWING | IS IT KILLING CREATIVITY? A great read.
♥ Photos in the beginning are from my factory visits in Turkey.
That's it for today!
I hope this was not too much of a downer :) comment below what your take on sustainable sewing is! Or if you have any questions you think I can answer.
Have a wonderful day
♥ ♥ ♥
Josefine
Ploen Patterns
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Hi there!
I have been away on holiday and also on some work trips lately. That's why I haven't made a blog post for so long. Today I wanted to share one of my latest makes - a Betty dress! As many of you know Sew Over It offered this pattern for free on international women's day. As a gift for the community. I love that they did that and I was so happy they chose the Betty dress because I had thought about buying this pattern before. It's a lovely design and I think it's a very versatile pattern. I love dresses like this. My boyfriend agreed to take some photos of me in my finished Betty dress. The greenery in Turkey was so beautiful, great for this photoshoot!
I started by making a toile of the bodice. I used an old sheet and sewed the most basic seams. I cut a size 10 because that was closest to my measurements. When I make toiles of bodices like this one my preferred method is pinning a divisible zipper in place at the side seam as closure. That way the back and front are intact and it's easy to tell if something is not right. It's also quick to pin a zipper in place.
The Betty bodice turned out to be very big on me around the shoulder, back and neckline area. I have seen this on many people who have made this pattern. That's why I thought I would share some alterations that I ended up making. Maybe it can be helpful for someone else too :)
The front neckline was gaping quite a bit. And I also had some gaping at the armhole. I made darts with the excess fabric form the neckline all the way to the waist dart point. And from the armhole I made a dart to the bust point. I then transferred the alterations to the paper pattern. I copied the lines of the toile to the pattern. When moving excess from somewhere to a dart I will have to cut open at two places: the line I just made and also one leg of the dart. That way I have a piece of the pattern that can be moved around. I made sure I removed the same amount at the armhole and neckline as I had on my toile. That amount is then distributed to the dart. After that you have an opening at the dart that you can close by placing some paper underneath and tape it in place. Voila!
On the back I had too much fabric everywhere. And the back was a bit too long too. I took out some excess fabric parallel to the center back seam. And I removed some vertically to make the straps a bit shorter there.
I then transferred these changes to my paper pattern. I measured the placement of all the "darts" I made and made the same lines on the pattern. I then cut and taped together, removing the same amount that I had on the toile. I did the same on front and back. The paper pattern then becomes a bit uneven at the edges. I made new lines.
Since I took away some length from the back bodice I had to be mindful of the shoulder placement. I needed to take away some from the front shoulder and add that on to the back shoulder to make the shoulder placement correct. Otherwise the shoulder would be placed too far back. Same goes for the side seams because I removed some amount from the back piece and not from the front piece.
Now I had one more thing to do and that was to make new facings! Since I made so many changes to the bodice pieces I have to make the same changes to the facings. I just drafted new facings, copying the shapes of the bodice patterns.
For the skirt I made sure the waist measurement added up to the waist on the bodice. I made the skirt 5 cm longer and I think it turned out beautiful. I think this length is very flattering :)
I love how this dress turned out. I will definitely make more Betty dresses! And now that I have a Betty bodice pattern that fits me perfectly there's no excuses! I have so many fabrics that would look gorgeous made up as Betty dresses <3
This fabric for my first betty dress is bought from Stoff o Stil (sold out).
Have you tried this pattern? What did you think?
Let me know in the comments below!
Have a wonderful day everyone and I will talk to you soon <3
♥ ♥ ♥
Josefine
Ploen Patterns
]]>Hello there lovely humans! I hope you are doing well. I feel so happy and I have so much energy... you wanna know why? I think it's finally spring in Stockholm!
The birds are chirping and the sun comes out almost every day. And it's not super cold anymore. When I wake up in the mornings (which is quite early) there's actual light shining through the windows... amazing. What a time to be alive! :D
To celebrate the spring in all it's glory today I thought we could take a look at my latest make: The crazy colourful spring rainbow top I made.
I wanted to make something colourful and fun to announce the end of the cold and dark season and say hello to the bright and fun season! This make makes me smile when I wear it, or even when I see it peaking out in my closet... Love it!
The pattern I used for this top is the Seamwork Astoria. I'm sure you have heard of it or even made it before. This is a pattern I have been wanting to try for a while. I love the cropped design and I thought it would be a great staple in my wardrobe since I wear a lot of skirts and dresses. The Astoria is also one of my #2019MakeNine so now I can cross that off my list as well! Win!
I asked for your opinion about this fabric on my insta stories a few weeks ago. Most thought it was cool and not too crazy for an Astoria. I agree! It is a bit crazy but not in a bad way and I think it works amazing for this pattern!
The fabric is leftover/overstock from the brand where I work as a garment technician. Indiesew has a great article about overstock fabric, read it here if you want to know more or you are unfamiliar with the term. I always try to find sustainable options in my professional work and when I'm sewing for myself is no exception. This is one of those makes. I love the colours and this is actually an organic cotton jersey on top of being overstock. Even better! The colours make me really happy and I like how the top pairs so well with a black skirt as I styled it in these photos.
I made a straight up size S. The only alteration I made was to add a cuff to the end of the sleeves. If you have read about my sewing previously you will know I have long arms and legs. So this is a standard alteration for me. I wanted to just make the actual sleeve pattern longer but my fabric piece was too small so I had to add a cuff instead. I actually like how it turned out this way and it's very comfortable.
The fit is quite good I think. The only thing I'm thinking about altering for my next one is the sleeve. It's a bit short for me as I said and also a bit tight. It looks good with a tight sleeve but I think it would be more comfortable if it had a bit more room. Might make that change for future Astorias. The waistband is a bit loose on my waist too but I don't think I will alter it. It sits comfortably and that's quite important to me. Over all I'm happy with the fit! I didn't look at the instructions that much but I think they were good from what I gathered, it's quite a simple make so it would be very hard to screw up the instructions :)
I made the neckband a bit shorter than the pattern piece and I could've made it even shorter considering the little gaping at the shoulder. Oh, well. For next time maybe. It always depends on the fabric too. This fabric is extremely stretchy so I could've shortened the neckband quite a bit but for another fabric quality it might not have worked.
I will definitely be making more Astorias! I want to make one out of a gorgeous ponte for example. I don't have a fabric like that in my stash though so that might not happen. Why? Because if my fabric stash downsizing project is going to work I will have to sew more than I purchase. Not purchase more than I sew like most sewists do, am I right? ;)
This was a great stash busting project. I had just enough fabric to make an Astoria and I think this fabric really suited this pattern. What do you think of the Astoria pattern and this fabric? Are you making any crazy colourful garments too, to celebrate spring? :) Let me know in the comments.
Have a wonderful day everyone and I will talk to you soon <3
♥ ♥ ♥
Josefine
Ploen Patterns
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Hi there! I have been quiet on the blog for a while. You wanna know what I've been doing? Sewing! :)
I made myself some PJ's!
For those of you who don't know: I live in Stockholm (The capital of Sweden). It's a very cold place and spring has unfortunately not gotten here yet. And on top of that I am a very cold person. Not as in I have a cold heart or anything... just that I'm freezing. All the time. Therefore I like to wear a lot of clothes when I'm sleeping. To not wake up as an ice cube. I wear sweatpants and old t-shirts and hoodies and socks... things like that to keep warm.
Not too cute as an outfit in my opinion so I thought I would make myself something nicer to wear!
Said and done. I've had this jersey fabric in my stash forever. It's a gorgeous pink apple print that I think is so cute for this purpose. I don't think I would wear it as a tee for wearing in public but as PJ's it's perfect! And I love a set! Anything matching top and bottoms is a win. Be it a cute top and skirt for summer or PJ's - you can count me in. Next best thing after dresses am I right? ;)
The patterns I used for this set are the Stella joggers and Frankie baseball tee from Tilly's Stretch sewing book. I bought this book at the beginning of the year and I have read it cover to cover as if it was a novel. I love it! A part from being absolutely beautiful it's also full of inspiration, helpful tips and thoughtful texts about sustainable sewing, tools and everything you would want in a sewing book.
This book as renewed my love for sewing knits. I had forgotten how fast, easy and satisfying jersey sewing can be! And so easy to fit. I made no alterations to the patterns and the result is quite good I think. Tilly talks a lot about rotary cutting and cutting mats for jersey in this book and it finally pushed me over the edge to join the rotary cutting club... And now there's no going back! How did I even make anything without this mat before?? I do not know but I'm so happy this (pink!) mat is now a part of my life :)
Rotary cutting has changed how I feel about my jersey makes too. The cutting process is so smooth and professional now. I used to dread sewing with knits because I'm not as used to it as working with woven garments. Now I feel inspired and ready to expand my me made jersey wardrobe. I have more makes from this book and other pattern to show you in the upcoming weeks. I'm on a roll :D
Now for the patterns I used from the book to create this cute set.
The "Frankie" and the "Stella".
The Frankie tee is a baseball tee with raglan sleeves. At first I thought I wouldn't make this pattern from the book because it's a bit 'sporty' and not really my style. But when looking through the book for patterns to make in to sleepwear I thought it would be perfect.
It's a classic baseball tee but the fit makes it something special. I like the shaping around the waist and the curved hem. And it's not short, which is good. It's a very fast make and the instructions are superb. But as I said I don't think I would wear this for everyday wear. But who knows? I like the version they made with colour blocking so I might give that a try or make it in a pretty floral... we'll see.
The Stella pattern is actually a few patterns. I made the Stella joggers but there are also a hoodie and a hoodie dress. I have plans for the hoodie dress so you will be seeing a post about that soon for sure.
Have you made yourself some unique PJ's or loungewear? I plan to make more because let's be honest; it's what I enjoy wearing the most. I always made fancy dresses before that didn't get a lot of wear. Very fun to sew but not practical. I am trying to add more 'basic' me made pieces to my collection that I know I will wear. That includes some jersey dresses as well because secret PJ's are nice to wear too. Woven dresses and skirts are some of my favourite things to make but they are not my favourite things to wear. I love how they look but then after a few hours they get a bit uncomfortable. So a few jersey dresses will be a great addition to my me made wardrobe!
I skipped the drawstring on the joggers because I didn't think they were necessary for this make. And honestly I just couldn't be bothered to do the button holes that they are supposed to loop through. Next time maybe!
I didn't make any alterations to the patterns and I think they turned out pretty good. The fit is good except for the length of the sleeves and the legs. I'm quite tall and I have long arms and legs so it was no surprise. I will have to lengthen both sleeves and legs for my next pair. I made the tee with full length sleeves but they look pretty short on me so I rolled them up a bit for these photos. I will have to lengthen the pattern a few centimeters. And for the bottoms I think I will add around 5 centimeters to the length.
I used my overlocker to sew most of the seams and I used my twin needle for topstitching and hems. Creates a very professional finish if I say so myself.
The only thing that was bothering me about the patterns in this book is the seam allowances. If I make a jersey pattern for myself I add 6mm of seam allowance. That's what you need for an overlocker and that's industry standard as far as I've learned. These patterns have 1,5 cm seam allowance, which is a lot! It's not as smooth to sew on the overlocker when you have that much fabric to cut off. I found the seam allowances wanting to curl back in to the machine when it sewed, resulting in me having to hold the parts that were being cut off by the overlocker so that it would be caught in the seam. I hope that makes sense haha. Hard to explain. I don't know if I want to go through the trouble of cutting off seam allowance of all the patterns and I understand that they wanted to make the book inclusive for everyone, overlocker-owner or not. But even if you are using a zigzag stitch 1,5 cm is a lot. Just a thought and something I was a bit annoyed by throughout the process. What seam allowances do you prefer? Maybe this is a topic for a completely different blog post I will write some day :)
I like this book a lot so the big seam allowances are not an issue when considering how well drafted these patterns are and just the fact that I kind of got my sewjo back because of this book! I'm very happy about that.
Have you bought this book? What do you think of it? Let me know in the comments!
Have a wonderful day everyone and I will talk to you soon <3
♥ ♥ ♥
Josefine
Ploen Patterns
]]>My first make of January is this skirt!
I received three pieces of gorgeous African wax print fabrics from my dad at Christmas. He's a jazz musician and he went to Liberia some time before Christmas. He came back with loads of fabrics for me, my mom and my sister. He had a really hard time choosing which prints to bring home but I think he did a really good job!
I wanted to make a skirt and I thought this print and these colours lended themselves best. I think the other two will become dresses of some kind. Do you you have any suggestions? What should I make? :)
I wasn't sure which pattern to use for a long time. At first I though about my Astrid skirt pattern. But then I thought all of the buttons would distract from the print? So I decided to go for one of my #2019MakeNine instead! The Patti Pocket Skirt by Amy Nicole Studio. I think the pleats and pockets on this design worked perfect with this bold print! In Amy's own words "Y'all African wax print and the Patti pocket skirt go together like milk and cookies!"
I loved Amy's instruction style. She calls it her “assembly line method". It's efficient and it's very much like how we learned to sew in fashion school when we were sewing like they do in ready-to-wear-manufacturing. We always made the distinction between tailoring and ready to wear. For example you would want to sew as much as possible on your overlocker at once instead of switching between straight stitch and overlock machines.
I don't like assembling this way for all garments but sometimes it's fun to move faster through a project. Since my sewing machine and my overlocker are right next to each other it's very easy to switch between them so I don't feel inefficient when doing that most of the time. However in a factory or in school they can be quite far from each other so you want to switch as little as possible. If you are curious about this method you should try one of Amy's patterns! She walks through the process beautifully. I like her illustration style on the instructions, too!
I had one issue with this skirt and that's 100% on me. When I was piecing the side seams together they didn't fit. One side was quite a bit shorter than the other and I was so confused. It turned out I had skipped a piece of the pattern. I somehow didn't see the tiny top piece of the side skirt pattern piece so I had cut it out too short. I managed to add a bit of fabric (tried to pattern match as best I could) and then everything fit together! You can't really tell so no worries.
This pattern is drafted for petite frames. And ladies that are 5'4 and under. I'm 174 cm (around 5'9?) but I didn't let that stop me! Since this pattern really only needs to fit at the waist I thought it would be fine if I made view B, the long length. It worked :)
I really like the length!
I cut a size 8 without alterations and when I tried the skirt piece on I thought it was a bit too big so I took in a few cm in the pleats to fit my waist. I think if (when) I make this pattern again I will try size 6.
I used a regular zipper instead of an invisible suggested by the pattern. I didn't have any invisible zippers that would go well with this skirt. I also added two buttons and button holes instead of a hook and bar. I didn't have that either. I like the look of the buttons as well.
And for the hem facing I used a contrasting fabric because I think that looks nice. Just an old sheet that had a similar red colour to the shell fabric.
I want to make this pattern again because it's a great skirt that I will get a lot of wear out of.
One thing abut the drafting I might change is the waistband. Since it's quite a wide waistband it might need to be shaped to fit me perfectly. It's just a straight piece. When making waistbands that are 3cm wide or less they can probably be just a rectangle shape, but if they are wider they might need some shaping to hug the body. These things are very obvious on my body shape and it's not true for everyone. This skirt sticks out a bit on top of the waistband so I might try to fix that with some shaping! (curved waistband).
I would recommend this pattern to anyone even if you are over 5'4! I won't try view A though :)
There are instructions to lengthen or shorten the skirt however so I might try to make a shorter version, but quite a bit longer than view A. I haven't decided on fabric yet... To be continued!
See you next time!
♥ ♥ ♥
Josefine
Ploen Patterns
]]>My last make of 2018 was the Pussy Bow Blouse by Sew Over It. I finished the last seam the day before New Year's eve. And I wore it on New Year's! I paired it with a green velvet skirt I got from the brand where I have my day job. I think they look great together!
This project started with the fabric. I'd had this gorgeous viscose fabric in my stash for a few years and it never got paired up with a pattern until now. I bought it at Stoff och Stil. Yay for a stash busting project!
I have drooled over many sewing patterns from indie designers this winter. I have been so inspired to sew more finally after a long slump. And I wanted to try a new (to me) pattern company. I have always thought that Sew over it has some beautiful designs. That chic vintage look that I love... I like almost all of the patterns they have in their range which is not often the case for me since I am very particular with what kind of shapes I like.
I was so excited to find the pussy bow blouse that fits perfectly with this viscose fabric.
Their website is really good in my opinion. I'm a sucker for a great user experience and beautiful design so it was a pleasant shopping experience.
I bought the PDF-pattern since I thought there wouldn't be too many pages to print. The perks of sewing tops instead of dresses for a change :)
One odd thing I noticed is these line drawings don't show the center front seam! I was a bit confused at first and a bit disappointed about the seam but it doesn't show on the finished garment luckily. The ties do a great job of hiding the seam!
I decided to cut a size 10, since that was the closest to my measurements. I thought about making size 12 but I was worried it would feel too big and sloughy and I'm not really a fan of that. I decided to make version 1. With the higher placed bow.
I quickly realized I didn't have enough fabric. Since the blouse has long sleeves and long ties I wouldn't be able to cut out the long sleeves and still have enough fabric for the bow. So I decided to make a 3/4 sleeve and make a new cuff. That worked out so well that I think I might do the same on future blouses! I made a cuff without a button closure to make it easier and I like the look of it.
The instructions were clear for the most part and they also have a sew along on their blog for this pattern, which is nice! One thing I will change for my next one is how they tell you to make the "collar". I love that the instructions tell you to do some hand sewing here and there. The couture lover in me was really happy to read that step! It keeps the clean look and no visible topstitching really suits these types of fabrics you use for this pattern. However they tell you to slip stitch collar/ties to the bodice neckline from the WRONG side of the garment. I didn't think much of it until I flipped it to the right side to see how it looked. Some stitches showed on the right side, which is a bit of a bummer. I do think that's the best way to slip stitch when working with a heavier fabric. However for this lightweight fabric I would slip stitch in place from the RIGHT side of the garment. That way I have control over what shows on the right side and if a few stitches are visible on the inside - no big deal. I went ahead and used this method for the cuffs and it looks perfect.
The size 10 turned out to fit just right. I made sure to try it on every few steps of the process to make sure it wouldn't be too small. It does fit me differently on the shoulders than for example on Lisa in the product photos. On her the shoulder almost looks like a dropped shoulder. I think that's because I have quite broad shoulders for my size and I kind of fill the blouse out. It's not bothering me though. I like the fit. It felt a bit tight on the sleeve though so I might take a look at that for my next make. My biceps are so big you know... haha..
I finished the whole blouse with french seams because it really suits this type of fabric. I like how clean the inside looks.
I predict that I will be wearing this blouse a lot, which is great because that really is my goal for my makes. I love the look of the blouse tucked in to a skirt :)
I like this pattern and I will definitely be making it again. I think I will try a solid colour in version 2 next time! I like version 1 but I think version 2 will stay in place better and might be easier to wear? It seems like version 2 is the more popular one since I haven't seen a lot of version 1 made up when looking through the # on instagram for example. I think I stretched out the fabric a bit when sewing the V-shape at the neckline (very easy to do wit this kind of fabric) because it is bit wonky on that part and doesn't want to lay flat. Good thing it's covered with the bow! This problem would be easier to avoid when making version 2 I think.
Have you made this pattern? Did you like it? I would recommend this pattern to anyone who wants to make a bow blouse. Use a lightweight drapey fabric!
That's it for today. Let me know if you want me to do more pattern reviews
Happy sewing
♥ ♥ ♥
Josefine
Ploen Patterns
]]>But first a little story about nail polish! I have a clear container where my polishes sit. Once upon a time that container was overflowing with nail polishes in all the colours of the rainbow. My first thought was "I have to get another container!" False. That thought I've realized is a dangerous one. It can lead to clutter like nothing else... And that's not really what I wanted when I thought about it. So instead of getting another container I went through all of the nail polishes and got rid of old dry ones. Then I gave away all the colours that I didn't use. Obvious and simple you might think. But very powerful. I fit the nail polishes to my container. Not the other way around. This is a simple principle that I want to apply on other areas of my home and life as well. My sewing space for example. And that brings us to today's topic! My one year without buying any new fabric. If you're still with me - let's go! :) Like many other sewers I have a quite large collection of fabrics. I have bought fabrics regularly since I was around 14 and when people know that you like to sew - they give you fabrics. Funny how that works. I have been given fabric collections from people many times. Let's just say all those fabrics add up! I found myself at the beginning of 2018 not being able to find places to put my piles of fabric anymore. And to be honest I had enough fabric to last me for years of sewing. And yet I didn't sew that much. I only made a few pieces in 2018. I had a huge fabric clear out at the beginning of the year. I gave away fabrics that I knew I didn't want to make clothes out of and I sold some nicer pieces that were not right for me but maybe for someone else. That felt great! If you've ever had a huge clear out of any kind you know what I'm talking about! I decided to try this year long experiment to pair down my fabric collection and actually use the fabrics I already had, instead of adding and adding. I also thought it would be a good financial decision. And a sustainable one (use what you have)! Now that that's out of the way.
Here's what I learned:
1. I don't love all the fabrics I own.
I realized I didn't really like a lot of the fabrics I had in my collection. Even though I had a lot of fabrics some of them have been there for years and years without being used. I don't see myself wearing a garment made of them. That didn't feel right. Conclusion: I need to apply the same principles to my fabric collection as I do to my wardrobe. I'm diligent about keeping a small, almost minimal collection of clothes for myself. I want to love my clothes and only keep what I actually wear. I need to start thinking like that when it comes to my fabrics. I often follow the 1 in 1 out rule when it comes to garments. I will try that when it comes to fabrics, too! 1 fabric sewn - 1 fabric bought. Or one fabric bought - 1 fabric donated to find a better home. Maybe it sounds boring and it's not for everyone. But I have a small space compared to how many fabrics I own so I think this is a reasonable idea to adapt.
2. I didn't manage to pair down my collection, at all.
As I mentioned before, when you sew - you will receive fabrics! That is a very true statement when you look at my 2018 in review. I started a new job at a small brand in April of 2018. Sometimes we have overstock fabrics. It can be sample fabrics for example. Every once in a while all of the employees can pick and choose from that pile of fabrics. Well my rule for 2018 was to not BUY any fabrics. But receiving for free? Hard to say no. And it really is a good thing to make use out of overstock fabric in a sustainable way. I made this dress with one of those fabrics - it's one of my favourite makes of 2018 so that's a win. But relating to my goal of pairing my stash down? Not a win.
3. Not buying fabric is not enough.
So I added to my collection during the year instead of pairing it down. Even though I had that big clear out at the beginning of the year I still had a hard time finding spaces to put my fabrics in. I have drawers that were meant for clothes filled with fabrics. And a suitcase in the closet... I didn't sew enough to keep up with the accumulation of fabrics either. I might need a different approach? Yeah, no kidding. I want to have a fabric collection that inspires me to create! Not one that weight me down and feels like I need to make something out of all the fabrics that some random lovely lady gifted to me. The challenge for 2019 will be to clear out the fabrics that I won't use. I need to be honest with myself and not keep fabrics just to keep them. Cluttered space, cluttered mind.
4. I love fabric shopping.
I felt a bit deprived towards the end of the year. I found myself scrolling through online shops for hours on end, drooling over all the fabrics I could't buy... And I started this year off by buying fabrics that I absolutely LOVE. And it makes me so happy! Now I will choose some fabrics that I want to get rid of to make space for these new ones. I don't want to start buying fabrics excessively because of finances, sustainability and lack of space. I will however allow myself to buy more conscious fabrics in moderation this year. And make use of what I have. I will go through my collection and plan out what I want to make. If I can't think of a project for a fabric or if I don't like the print/colour enough that I would want to wear it - I will not keep it!
I have started my own fabric shop, focusing on overstock fabrics (leftover from the fashion industry). You can find the collection here. By taking care of the fabric that already exists and doesn't get used up we make a lower impact on the climate than buying new fabrics. It's a great way to be creative and keep sewing but a little bit better than buying freshly mass produced fabrics. Instead of ending up in a landfill these fabrics can have a new life in the hands of talented seamstresses like yourself :)
Have you tried anything similar to this? Do you have a big collection or do you buy fabrics for each project you start so you don't have to keep a stash? Did you think this post was helpful at all or maybe you want to give me the phone number to a fabric hoarder clinic...? XD
Do you think twice before buying fabric? Do you try to find more sustainable alternatives?
Let me know if any of you are in a similar position with your fabric collections.
This experiment was interesting, but I don't think I will do it again :) But I am determined to keep my fabric collection smaller and my sewing space decluttered.
Maybe my space can look as dreamy as this one day...? <3
Click on any photos to get to the sources.
That's it for today
♥ ♥ ♥
Josefine
Ploen Patterns
]]>I hope your 2018 was great and I hope 2019 is going to be even better! There's no time like the beginning of a new year for planning your sewing projects and setting some new goals...
I had huge plans for 2018 and I didn't get a lot done... 2019 is going to be different! I feel like I've got a better sewing routine down now in November and December and I've started to get into the habit of sewing every single day. Even if it's just one seam. It makes a huge difference... I think that's going to help me create more in 2019. Let's hope for the best!
I want to add some gorgeous me made pieces to my collection!
Now let's talk about #2019MakeNine
The # comes from Rochelle. She started it as a spinoff on the "#20XXBestNine".
The 9 most likes photos on your Instagram over the last year.
The Make Nine is for sewers, knitters and other crafty people.
Read more about the challenge here.
It's so fun to follow this #! Love seeing what everyone makes and plans and how many things they cross off their list at the end of the year.
My #2019MakeNine:
I bought this pattern in both size ranges. The plan is to make one for my boyfriend and maybe one for myself too. I have some awesome fabric plans for this pattern. My boyfriend is a nightmare when it comes to fitting things so I think this jacket style will be a good first option. Just make it fit around the shoulders and we're all set... right?
I have three or four half finished shirts for him and none of them fit. So I'm a bit burned in that area. But I won't give up! I will give you updates on how it goes...
2. The Barrett Bra by Madalynne Intimates.
This is a free pattern that I downloaded super long ago. I have the fabric and notions ready but I didn't have the time in 2018. I'm excited for this make, it's such a beautiful design and I have not made bras in a very long time so I'm ready to get into it again.
3. The Kelly Anorak by Closet Case Patterns.
I'm sure you're all familiar with this pattern... It's finally time for me to make this up! I bought the pattern quite a while ago and I also bought the lining expansion and the hardware kit. Now I'm only waiting for the fabric to arrive... Super excited for this make. I have not made a jacket since school and I really need an anorak. It's gonna be great! I expect this to be a fun make too.
As soon as I came across this pattern I knew I had to make it... It's amazing! I know this kimono will be a great cover up and sun protection during summer and vacation. I always struggle with burning myself and not knowing how to protect myself from the sun. Maybe this is the super stylish solution! I don't have a fabric in mind but that's just a fun task to get to when the time comes. I don't think I have a suitable fabric in my stash...
5. The Flint pants and shorts by Megan Nielsen.
I want to make both the shorts and the culottes version. I think this is a super cute design. I'm a little worried about fitting issues since I have a really hard time with trousers. I stopped buying ready to wear trousers and jeans since nothing ever fits me. But that's a good reason to make my own and create a great fit. I don't own any shorts so I'll have to make quite a few Flint shorts if I like the pattern!
6. The Sointu Kimono Tee by Named.
Another Named pattern. I just stumbled across this pattern a few days ago and thought it looked really cool. I want to make it out of a Ponte di Roma jersey maybe... It might be a good layering piece and it looks comfy yet stylish. That's my jam!
7. The Patti Pocket skirt by Amy Nicole Studio.
This is a super cute skirt pattern that looks like something that would fit in my wardrobe. I have a lot of fabrics that would work with this pattern which is great! I will make the long version. It's a petite pattern and I'm quite tall so I figure it won't be a good idea to make the short version. And besides that I enjoy wearing longer skirts anyway.
8. The Astoria by Seamwork magazine.
This is a lovely sweater that I've been eyeing for a while. It would work great with all of my skirts and dresses and it has that flattering shape that I love! I have almost no fabrics in my stash that would work with this pattern so I will have to look for some cosy knits soon.
9. The Eve Dress by Sew over it.
To be honest I want to make all of the Sew over it patterns. The whole range that they offer is just straight up my style and I love them all. But for my #2019MakeNine I'm just adding the Eve dress. I think it's absolutely gorgeous and I love wrap dresses. Again, I don't have fabrics in my stash that would suit this pattern, but that's not really a problem because fabric shopping is a fun hobby in and of itself, right?
So that's my #2019MakeNine. I have not taken part in this challenge before and I'm very excited to see how it goes!
Here's the Instagram account to follow for the challenge.
Have you decided on your #2019MakeNine yet? Have you tried it before? How did it go? Let me know if you have any tips on how to reach your sewing goals for the year or how you successfully plan your sewing projects. I would love to know! I'm trying to get more organized in 2019.
♥ ♥ ♥
Josefine
Ploen Patterns
]]>I love seeing other sewers pattern collections so I thought I would show you mine! I don't have any pictures of pattern storage in this blog post. That's coming in the future.
I have a few PDF patterns to show you and then I have the outstanding collection of 3 paper patterns. This is my entire pattern collection as of december 2018.
Patterns by my own company Ploen Patterns are included but not self drafted ones that are only 1 size and experments that are not quite fully finished. Because most of the good ones are hopefully being released as real PDF patterns some day, and I want the releases to be a surprise. So stay tuned for that in 2019!
Let's get in to the collection!
Paper patterns:
1. Vouge V8667. I bought this pattern a few years ago. I wanted a good princess seam bodice for dresses. I think it had a pretty good fit without too many adjustments but I've only made one (view C) and it was a while ago so I might have to adjust it to fit me right now. We'll see! I made view C in a white cotton poplin with red polka dots. Very sweet. And I also made a mini dress in matching fabric that I sold when I had an Etsy shop a few years ago. Too cute! The collar on this dress looks so elegant too. Need to give that a go!
2. This is a Swedish vintage pattern "Stil 4864". The Stil company does not exist anymore to my knowledge. I think this pattern is late 60s - early 70s? I can't find it online or even find a photo of it so I have no idea. The texts in the instructions are very old timey Swedish though. I have made a toile for the jacket view A but I have not finished it. Maybe some day. Or I might pass this pattern on to someone else because it's not really my style.
3. I have a paper pattern for a bikini somewhere from the Swedish pattern company Svenska Mönster. But I can't find a photo of it right now. I made an attempt on a bikini when I was around 14 and it was a disaster and I've never tried it since... oh well. Might give it a go for next summer!
And that is the entirety of my paper pattern collection!
Now we can move on to the fun bit! Indie patterns! And PDF's because I don't own any indie patterns in paper format actually (I want some though because they tend to be so pretty).
1. My first ever PDF pattern: The Georgia vintage dress by The Cottage Mama. I bought this girl's dress pattern when I wanted to use up tiny remnants of fabric and make more kid's clothes. I went on to draft my own patterns for kids and make alterations to this Georgia pattern. I sold cute little dresses in my Etsy shop and also gave dresses as gifts for friends and relatives with kids since I don't have any of my own yet :)
This is the cutest dress and it's really fun to sew tiny tiny clothes!
2. The In the Folds x Peppermint magazine: Peplum top free pattern. To be honest I just downloaded this pattern because it was free. It's not my style and I didn't like the one I made, on me. Nothing wrong with the pattern it's just not right for me. Made it once, won't make it again I think. The collaboration with In the Folds and Peppermint magazine is awesome though. Lovely to provide free patterns!
3. Another In the Folds x Peppermint magazine free pattern! The Jumpsuit. I have printed out the pages and then they were so many and I didn't feel like taping them so it's been sitting there for a while. I love this style and I hope it will look good on me. Just have to find the right fabric and I will make it!
4. The Megan Nielsen Acacia. Lovely little pattern for undies that is free if you sign up to the free club. Which I did, of course. I made one pair and I didn't like the cut, but I'm sure I can change them up a bit to suit me. Great stash buster for those random tiny pieces of knits. I used a black and white scrap and also a blue scrap. And some white lingerie binding I had left over from school lingerie making.
5. The Ariana woven dress by Style Arc! You know I love this dress <3. I bought the fabric for a specific occasion (wedding in Paris in July). I sewed it up just before we took the flight to France this summer and I love this dress and want to make many more for next summer! Read the Ariana dress blog post here
6. The Kelly Anorak by Closet Case Patterns. I think all of you know about this pattern... I bought it a few months ago and I also bought the hardware kit. Now I only need the outer fabric. But since I'm having a no fabric shopping year 2018 that will have to wait until 2019 :) But then I'm really really excited for this make! I think I will buy the lining too, to make it a real professional jacket.
7. The York Pinafore by Helen's Closet. I bought this as soon as it came out because it looked so so cute but then I don't know which fabric I want to use. I love the denim version that Helen made but I don't have any denim on hand so this project might have to wait for 2019 too. Which is no big deal since 2018 is almost over anyway.
8. The Berrett Bralette by Madalynne Intimates. This is a lovely looking bra and as a bonus it's also a FREE pattern! I have not tried this one yet but I have the supplies for a wearable muslin which I hope to make soon. I have a black shiny fabric I want to use.
9. My latest purchase is the Pussy bow blouse by Sew over it London. I love the look of this pattern and I have a gorgeous viscose fabric in mind. This is a make I hope I can finish before the end of the year actually. Wish me luck!
10. This is another free pattern. The Tate top by Workroom Social. I had forgotten about his pattern actually. But now I want to try it :)
11. Last but not least: My own patterns! I have released two patterns so far.
The Freja dress (Free download) and the Astrid skirt. I plan to make more of these for myself as soon as I decide on what fabric to use. You will be seeing more of these styles!
I wanted the Freja dress to be an easy make that didn't require zippers or buttons. An easy throw on dress for summer. I loved the Freja dress on holidays in Asia where the weather was too hot to handle... Love the tie belt that gives the dress some shape.
For the Astrid skirt I wanted to create the skirt that I needed for my wardrobe. I love the pockets and pleats and button down front. It's a versatile pattern that can look completely different depending on the fabric quality and print. I love it in a stripe but I'm planning to sew it up in some nice solids as well. Great staple skirt!
Conclusion: I need to start buying some patterns - that's for sure! Hit me with you best T&T (tried and true) patterns! What are your staple patterns for your me made wardrobe? I clearly need some great pants, shorts an culottes for example. Any suggestions?
Hope you enjoyed seeing this list <3
I'm sure my 2019 pattern collection will have grown quite a bit. Exciting!
♥ ♥ ♥
Josefine
Ploen Patterns
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Now let's jump right in!
Hack number 1: Prewashing fabrics
I used to never do this. And I have to say I learned this the hard way.
I made a dress and wore it a few times - then threw it in the wash and yeah, you guessed it... It was a few sizes too small when I took it out...
So, always pre wash you fabric before cutting guys! It's worth it. Believe me.
It makes such a difference. You will not know how the fabric reacts otherwise. Pre-shrink and then you don't have to think about it any more. Wash the fabric in the same way you want to wash the finished garment later. Then it will not shrink any more the next time you wash. Genius!
Read the article from My blue print here
They talk about different kinds of fabric too. It's a good article :)
Hack number 2: Finding the grain
I learned some of these tricks in tailoring school. Very useful to know when you have a scrap fabric piece without any selvage edges for example and you need to cut out your pattern pieces with the correct grainline. Check out this article by Colette. Well worth a read! I learned some new things as well as got a refresher on things that I might have forgotten... useful knowledge!
Hack number 3: Staystitching
This is also something I learned in tailoring school. It can help a lot with creating a professional looking garment! All shapes and edges that are on the bias can get stretched out when sewing. Staystitching ensures the shape stays in place and isn't stretched. For example around a neckline or sleeve cap. This is a very helpful and simple article by Tilly and the buttons. They always explain in a very clear way. Take a look!
Hack number 4: Gathering the easy way
I have never actually tried this. Have any of you had any success with this technique? Let me know! It looks so helpful. I really don't like gathering so maybe I will give this a go on my next gathering project. Check out this article by Rae Gun Ramblings here.
She uses yarn and a zig zag stitch to gather. I've seen this technique go around quite a bit and some people swear by it so it might be worth a try!
Hack number 5: Seam ripping
If you have received my newsletter for a while you will recognize this hack. I was in shock a few months back when I came across this hack for the first time... How have I been in fashion school and technical design classes and tailoring classes for years and never come across this? I couldn't understand it... So simple and efficient and logic... Oh well at least my life is better now that I know this seam ripper magic. Read the article by Serger Pepper and thank me later :) Hint: everything changed when I turned my seam ripper "upside down". And if this is old news to you - congratulations! Good for you for knowing this already. I bet you don't have the same hate for the seam ripper as I do...
Hack number 6: Installing a basic zipper
This is also a hack that I've never used but I like the idea of it. I think this can be super helpful for installing zippers for beginners. And for creating really even and neat looking zipper finishing. Have you tried installing zippers this way? Great article by Make it & Love it. I will definitely give it a try the next time I want to install a basic zipper.
That's it for today. I hope you learned something new and got inspired to improve your sewing. I know I did!
Let me know if there's something you think I missed on this list. Is there something I should add? Do you have any magical sewing hacks you would like to share with us? Let me know by emailing me at josefine@ploenpatterns.com or in the comment section below.
Bye for now!
♥ ♥ ♥
Josefine
Ploen Patterns
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