Vera View A - Sewalong part 1
Follow along step by step as I'm sewing the Vera dress, view A!
Part 1: Preparations
Pattern: The Vera Dress, PDF pattern
Suggested fabrics: light weight woven fabrics such as cotton lawn, voile, challis. And light weight viscose/rayon with a nice drape.
My fabric: I'm using this fabric from Storrs London called Chelsea garden (in yellow) for my Vera dress. In collaboration with them I am offering you a discount code for 20% off your purchase! How great is that? Use code PLOEN1 at checkout when buying any of their gorgeous cotton lawn fabrics!
Now let's get started! Make sure you have your pattern, fabric, thread, button, elastic and button loop, details of the quantities are in the pattern instructions. And of course you need a sewing machine and scissors and all that good stuff. I'm using an overlocker too but if you don't have one a zigzag stitch on your regular machine will work just as well :)
Print your pattern. Make sure your settings are set to “print actual size”, “100%” or “true to scale”. Do not add “fit to paper”. I find that Adobe Reader works best for printing. (It's free). On page 1 of the pattern you will find one test square that is 5 cm and one that is 1.5 inches. Start by only printing page 1. Measure your printed square to ensure your printer didn’t scale your pattern! When you are satisfied you can print the rest of the pattern. Assemble the pages, making sure the diamonds line up.
Prepare your fabric. Prewash your fabric the same way you intend to wash your finished garment. The reason for this step is to prevent shrinking and to detect any problems or kinks with the fabric before you use it. I washed my Storrs fabric at 40 degrees Celsius as instructed and it worked wonders. Not a lot of shrinkage and the colours and shine of the fabric remained. However I have had some unpleasant surprises in the past with other fabrics where I've skipped this step and then washed my finished garment, only to find it a few sizes too small when I took it out of the machine... So don't skip this step ;)
Choose a size using the size guide. Choose the size that is closest to your bust measurement.
Fit: We all have different body shapes and just as with RTW clothes no garment or pattern is made for your exact body. I always suggest you make a toile* before you cut out your fancy fabric. That way you can make adjustments to have a pattern that fits you perfectly to use over and over again.
*A toile is an early version of a finished garment made up in cheap material so that the design can be tested and perfected.
Seam allowances of 1 cm, 3/8" are included in the pattern.
Now it’s time to cut or trace out your size! And then start with the actual steps! I cut out my size because I prefer that method. Feel free to trace if that's your jam!
STEP 1. Place your pattern on the fabric and pin it in place making sure the grain line is right and there are no wrinkles underneath. Make sure everything is placed right before you cut!
STEP 2. Mark notches and fold line start and finish points by cutting into the fabric. Mark dart points with chalk, pins or a few stitches by hand.
STEP 3. Sew bust darts. Start at the edge of the fabric and end at the dart tip. Leave long strands of thread so it doesn’t unravel. You can tie them in to a knot to make it extra secure. Press the dart down towards waist. I mark the dart point with a pin and draw a pencil line lightly to mark the seam.
STEP 4. Staystitch around the curved neckline and armscye to prevent the fabric from stretching out. 0.5 cm, 1/4” from the edge. Use a regular seam length on your sewing machine.
STEP 5. Sew shoulder seams of the bodice pieces together with a 1cm, 3/8” seam allowance. Press seams open. Repeat on shoulder seams of the facing.
STEP 6. Overlock (serge) or zigzag around sleeve and side seams of bodice pieces.
Overlock armhole to the markings (notches) on the pattern. Overlock pockets. Overlock around facing edge. Overlock CB (center back) seams.
That's it for today! Next time we will start on the sleeves! See you then <3
Leave a comment below or send me an email (josefine@ploenpatterns.com) if you need help with anything or have any questions at all. I'm here for you!
♥ ♥ ♥
Josefine
Ploen Patterns