How to start upcycling thrifted fabrics

How to Upcycle Thrifted Fabrics, Without Looking Like You’re Wearing an old Curtain (even though you are)

Upcycling textiles from thrift shops is one of the most creative and sustainable ways to sew. But let’s be honest… no one wants their lovingly made garment to scream “tablecloth” every time they walk into a room.

The truth is: it’s all in the details. With the right eye and a few design tricks, you can turn thrifted fabrics into timeless, chic garments that look intentional and contemporary.

Sezane

1. Choose Your Fabric Wisely

Not every thrift find is created equal. Look for:

  • Natural fibers (cotton, linen, wool, silk) — they’ll drape and feel better than most synthetics.

  • Good condition — no thinning areas, permanent stains, or pilling. Cut away the damaged parts.

  • Scale of print — oversized florals can feel “dated,” but cut up strategically they can look bold and modern.

Hold the fabric up in front of a mirror at the thrift store. Ask yourself: Would I buy this print if it were on a bolt in a fabric shop? If the answer is no, skip it. Imagine the fabric as a product on a website, sewn into a finished garment. How will the scale of the print look? Are the colors for me? What kind of garment is this fabric going to look good as?  

 


2. Focus on Fit First

Even the most gorgeous fabric will look “homemade” if the fit is off. When upcycling, patterns often need tweaks since you’re working with unconventional fabric sizes. Take the time to:

  • Adjust your pattern pieces to the fabric you have (sometimes it’s worth piecing together smaller panels — if you do it cleverly, it can look like design, not compromise).

  • Do at least one test fit before cutting into your thrifted textile. If you have some tried and true patterns you've made before, now is a good time to use them. 

A beautifully fitted silhouette instantly elevates any fabric.



3. Play With Placement

Thrifted fabrics often come with quirks — borders, stripes, or uneven fading. Instead of hiding them, use them to your advantage:

  • Place borders at hems or cuffs for an interesting detail.

  • Use stripes diagonally or mix directions for an interesting effect.

  • Place a bold motif intentionally rather than letting it land randomly.

Urban Outfitters

4. Update With Contemporary Details

The difference between “upcycled chic” and “grandma’s curtains” is often in the finishing touches and the design choices.

  • Contemporary silhouettes think wide-leg trousers, minimalist shift dresses, oversized shirts, denim jacket styles, detailed blouses, cargo pants (make sure the leg is long enough), button down skirts... 

  • Unexpected elements like lots of topstitching, bias bindings in contrast colors, or visible zippers and beautiful buttons or hardware. Also, mixing different fabrics in the same project can be a great way to upcycle and refresh a thrifted textile. A print with a solid that complements the print, for example. 

  • Mixing thrifted with new — pair an upcycled skirt with a store-bought belt or buttons to instantly elevate it.

Maniere De Voir
Maniere De Voir

5. Don’t Skip Quality Control

Wash your fabric before sewing. Nothing’s worse than a finished garment that shrinks or warps on the first wash. Thrifted textiles can also be quite dusty and dirty. And when you’re done sewing:

  • Press every seam.

  • Finish raw edges neatly.

  • Add a lining if the textile is too sheer or scratchy.

These small details take your garment from “DIY project” to “designer piece.”


Final Thoughts

Upcycling is not about hiding the origins of your fabric; it’s about transforming it. With smart fabric choices, intentional design, and attention to fit, you’ll create garments that feel unique, stylish, and 100% you.

And you’ll know that your “new” favorite outfit has a story, one that’s better for the planet and your wardrobe. This is my favorite way of sourcing fabrics, and I think at least 60% of the fabrics I use are thrifted. Thrift stores can also be great places to find notions and trims for your projects! 

Let me know in the comments what you think about upcycling :) 

/Josefine 

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