Pair fabrics with patterns

by Josefine Hultén October 11, 2025

Fabric Choices: How to Pair Fabrics with Patterns

When it comes to garment sewing, fabric choice is just as important as the pattern itself. A beautiful design can be transformed by the right fabric, and the wrong fabric can cause even the best pattern to fall flat. The key to successful garment sewing is not only selecting the right pattern but also pairing it with a fabric that complements both the design and the intended wearability of the garment. Today I want to share with you how I pair patterns with fabrics, considering factors like wearability, sustainability, drape, weight, prints and more.

1. Understanding Fabric Types

It's important to understand some of the basic fabric types and their properties before we start. Each fabric behaves differently when sewing, wearing, and washing, so knowing how each fabric type drapes, stretches, and holds shape will help you make more informed decisions.

Woven cotton: A versatile fabric known for its breathability, comfort, and softness. Cotton is ideal for summer garments like dresses, shirts, and skirts. It's perfect for structured patterns like A-line skirts, blouses, or simple dresses.
Woven Linen: A natural, lightweight fabric that is breathable and perfect for warm weather. However, it wrinkles easily, so it's best suited for relaxed, casual patterns like loose tunics, wide-leg trousers, or flowy dresses.
Woven Silk: A luxurious, soft, and shiny fabric that drapes beautifully. Ideal for dresses, blouses, and evening wear. It's perfect for patterns that require a fluid drape, like slip dresses or a soft blouse.
Woven Wool: A heavier fabric that’s warm, breathable, and great for cooler weather. Wool is ideal for tailored garments like coats, blazers, and structured skirts. It provides great shape and structure.
Jersey/Knits: Stretchy fabrics that conform to the body, making them perfect for form-fitting garments like t-shirts, dresses, and activewear. Easier to fit than wovens and very comfortable to wear.
Denim: A heavier, durable woven fabric, ideal for structured garments like jeans, jackets, and skirts. Denim is excellent for patterns that require structure and stability.

2. Pairing Patterns with Fabrics

Now that we understand fabric properties, let’s look at how to pair them with patterns to ensure a beautiful, functional garment.

Structured vs. Flowy Designs

Certain patterns require fabrics that hold their shape, while others need something with more drape. Understanding these distinctions will help you select the perfect fabric for your pattern.

Structured Patterns: Patterns like blazers, coats, and pleated skirts require fabrics that maintain their shape. Fabrics like cotton twill, denim, and wool are perfect for these types of garments. They hold structure and allow the garment to keep its shape.
Flowy Designs: Patterns such as dresses, frilly blouses, or skirts with soft, flowing lines look best in fabrics that drape well. Consider fabrics like silk, rayon, viscose challis, or lightweight cottons for these styles. These fabrics allow the garment to move naturally with your body.

Consider the Garment’s Purpose

The function of the garment is just as important as its design. Consider how often you’ll wear the piece and in what environments. Garments made for work might need a more durable, professional fabric, while casual or loungewear garments can afford to be softer or stretchier.

Casual Garments: Fabrics like cotton, jersey, and linen are great choices for casual garments such as t-shirts, skirts, and dresses. They provide comfort and breathability, perfect for everyday wear.
Workwear: For garments like blouses, blazers, or tailored pants, you’ll want a fabric with a bit more structure and durability. Consider fabrics like cotton sateen, wool blends, or even light-to-medium weight denim.
Evening or Special Occasion Wear: Fabrics like satin, silk, velvet, and chiffon are perfect for creating garments that are both elegant and dramatic, such as cocktail dresses, evening gowns, or blouses with a glamorous finish.

3. Wearability Considerations

One of the most important aspects of garment sewing is ensuring that the finished piece is wearable—both in terms of comfort and practicality. Consider the following factors to help you choose fabrics that will result in garments you’ll want to wear again and again.

Comfort: Choose fabrics that feel comfortable against your skin. Natural fibers like cotton and linen are breathable and soft, making them ideal for hot weather or casual wear. Wool is a great option for winter months as it is warm and cozy.
Stretch: If you’re making form-fitting garments like dresses, leggings, or skirts, look for fabrics that have some stretch. Fabrics like jersey, ponte, or stretch cotton will provide flexibility and comfort while allowing the garment to retain its shape.
Durability: Think about how often you’ll wear the garment. A fabric like denim or wool is durable and can withstand frequent use, while more delicate fabrics like silk or chiffon are better suited for less frequent wear or special occasions.
Maintenance: Be sure to consider the ease of fabric care. Fabrics like cotton or linen are usually machine washable and easy to care for, while fabrics like silk or wool may require special care such as dry cleaning. Choose fabrics that align with your lifestyle and your willingness to care for them.

4. Sustainability

Choosing sustainable fabrics not only helps reduce your environmental impact but also ensures that the clothing you make is long-lasting and ethically produced. Here are a few sustainable fabric options to consider:

Organic Cotton: Grown without harmful pesticides, organic cotton is a great sustainable choice for everyday wear. It’s just as versatile as regular cotton, but it has a smaller environmental footprint.
Hemp: A highly sustainable and durable fabric, hemp is naturally resistant to pests and requires less water than cotton to grow. It’s perfect for relaxed, casual garments like shirts, trousers, and dresses.
Linen (Flax): Linen is another sustainable fabric, as it is made from the flax plant, which requires minimal water and pesticides. It’s a biodegradable option that’s great for summer garments.
Recycled Fabrics: Fabrics made from recycled fibers, like polyester from recycled bottles or fabric scraps, are a great way to repurpose materials and reduce waste. These fabrics are available in a variety of weights and styles, from activewear to everyday garments.
Wool from Ethical Sources: If you prefer natural fibers, seek out wool from sources that prioritize animal welfare and environmental impact. Ethical brands use practices that are better for the animals and the environment.

When making fabric choices, consider how the fabric was produced, its environmental impact, and its lifespan. Selecting fabrics that are durable and biodegradable is key to creating sustainable garments that will stand the test of time.

5. Pairing Patterns and Fabrics for a Perfect Fit

Selecting the right fabric for your pattern is a critical step in the garment-making process. By considering factors like the garment’s function, wearability, sustainability, and the fabric’s properties, you’ll be able to create pieces that are not only beautiful but also comfortable and practical.

Whether you’re opting for a structured wool blazer, a flowy silk dress, or a casual cotton shirt, pairing patterns with the right fabrics can elevate your sewing projects and make sure that your handmade garments are wardrobe staples for years to come. With the right fabric choices, you can create garments that fit your style, your body, and the planet.

Happy sewing!

PS. Curious about my mentorship program? Apply here and I will let you know if I think you would benefit from my coaching. /Josefine