Eira View A - Sewalong

Follow along step by step as I'm sewing the Eira top, view A! 

eira-technical-sketch 

Pattern: The Eira Top, PDF pattern

Suggested fabrics: Light to medium weight cotton jersey, viscose jersey or similar. Choose a fabric that is more on the firm than on the slippery side. At least 20% stretch on the crossgrain.

My fabric: I'm using a leftover sample fabric from the fashion brand where I work. Cotton/elastane jersey. 200 gsm. For reference. 

eira side view

Now let's get started! Make sure you have your pattern, fabric, thread and tools. And of course you need a sewing machine and scissors and all that good stuff. I'm using an overlocker too but if you don't have one a zigzag stitch on your regular machine will work just as well :) 

Use a stretch needle in your sewing machine. When sewing with jersey this is important to not break the fabric accidentally. A stretch needle has a rounded point and "slides" through the knit fabric, not breaking threads on its way. 

Print your pattern. Make sure your settings are set to “print actual size”, “100%” or “true to scale”. Do not add “fit to paper”. I find that Adobe Reader works best for printing. (It's free). On page 1 of the pattern you will find one test square that is 5 cm and one that is 1.5 inches. Start by only printing page 1. Measure your printed square to ensure your printer didn’t scale your pattern! When you are satisfied you can print the rest of the pattern. Assemble the pages, making sure the diamonds line up. 

Prepare your fabric. Prewash your fabric the same way you intend to wash your finished garment. The reason for this step is to prevent shrinking and to detect any problems or kinks with the fabric before you use it. I have had some unpleasant surprises in the past with other fabrics where I've skipped this step and then washed my finished garment, only to find it a few sizes too small when I took it out of the machine... So don't skip this step ;)

 eira top

Choose a size using the size guide. Choose the size that is closest to your bust measurement.

eira size chart

Fit: We all have different body shapes and just as with RTW clothes no garment or pattern is made for your exact body. I always suggest you make a toile* before you cut out your fancy fabric. That way you can make adjustments to have a pattern that fits you perfectly to use over and over again.

*A toile is an early version of a finished garment made up in cheap material so that the design can be tested and perfected.

Seam allowances of 0.6 cm, 1/4" are included in the pattern.

Now it’s time to cut or trace out your size! And then start with the actual steps! I cut out my size because I prefer that method. Feel free to trace on tracing paper if that's your jam!

printed pdf patterncut your size

STEP 1. Read through all the steps before you start! Place your pattern on the fabric and pin it in place making sure the grain line is right and there are no wrinkles underneath. Make sure everything is placed right before you cut! Seam allowances of 0.6 cm (1/4”) are included in the pattern. Look at the layplans (separate file) to get an idea of how to optimize your fabric amount for your size.

cut out pattern

STEP 2. Mark notches by cutting into the seam allowances a few mm. Notches are marked as black triangles on the pattern pieces.

clip sleeve notch

Also mark center front and center back on bodice pieces with a little cut. 

mark center front

STEP 3. Sew binding to the yoke pieces. Start by folding the binding wrong sides together lengthwise (a).

yoke binding

Place the binding to the right side of the yoke. Pin and sew the binding with an overlocker/serger stitch or zigzag. Then press the binding away from the yoke. 

pin binding to yoke

press binding

Yoke with binding:

yoke with binding

4. Sew the yoke pieces right sides together with the lower back piece. Sew zigzag or overlock/serger seam. It’s helpful to baste the yoke in just a few stitches by hand or on your sewing machine to make sure the binded edges of the yoke are placed correctly at the center back before overlocking or serging.

Place yoke pieces right sides together with lower bodice piece. 

yoke and lower bodice

Pin yoke pieces to bodice making sure the binding line up at center back like this:

pin yoke to bodice

Baste in place. II used a straight stitch on my sewing machine. 

baste

Now this part will stay put when you sew the pieces together.

baste seam

Then overlock/serge or zigzag the pieces together. 

serger

Now you have the back pieces connected:

back pieces

And this is what it looks like from the right side:

STEP 5. Sew shoulder seams. Place back and front pieces right sides together and sew together with zigzag or overlock/serger seam. 0.6 cm (1/4”) seam allowance.

shoulder seam

shoulder seam

STEP 6. Attach the sleeves to the bodice. Place the sleeves right sides together with the bodice.

attach sleeve to bodice

Match up the sleeve notch with the shoulder seam.

sleeve

Sew zigzag or overlock/serger seam.

sleeve attached

STEP 7. Sew side seams. Place right sides together matching notches and armhole seams. 

side seam

Sew zigzag or overlock/serger seam from bodice hem to sleeve hem.

sew side seam

STEP 8. Sew the hem of the bodice and the sleeve. Overlock all around the bottom hem and the sleeve hems.

overlock

Then fold up 1 cm (3/8”) and stitch down with twin needle seam or zigzag. If you have a coverstich machine you can do all this in one step.

fold hem

sleeve hem

twin needle

Give the hems a good press and then they’re done.

hem

STEP 9. Staystitch neckline to prevent it from being stretched out. Pin and sew the neckline binding right side to the wrong side of the bodice.

neckline

Match the center front and center back notches on the binding to the center front and center back of the bodice. Use these notches a a guide rather than a law. It depends on what fabric you use. Pin first and see if it looks good.

sew neck binding

Stretch less or more depending on how much stretch your fabric has. You might need to adjust the center back notches depending on fabric. Use an overlocker/serger or zigzag seam. 

neck binding

Make sure you stretch the binding a little bit when you sew the neckline. The bodice should not be stretched out at all. neck binding

Then fold the binding twice.

fold neck binding

fold

Topstitch in place with a twin needle stitch. If you don’t have a twin needle you can use a zigzag stitch. I used stitch length 3 on my machine. You don't want the stitch length to be too short when sewing with a twin needle in jersey. 

twin needle stitch

The binding continues to form the ties.

neck ties

Continue the topstitching to the end of the ties. Fold the ends in to themselves before backstitching to secure it all.

end of neck tie

Fold the end of the ribbon before sewing the twin needle stitch to the end. This creates a clean finish, secured at the end.

fold in to itself

sew neck tie

Then it's all done! Tie the neck ties into a bow, press the seams if needed and wear your Eira top with pride!

eira top

This is a great everyday top. So comfy :)

Finished eira

Love the bow detail:

bow detail at the back

back view

Let me know if you want a sewalong for Eira view B too :)

Leave a comment below or send me an email (josefine@ploenpatterns.com) if you need help with anything or have any questions at all. I'm here for you! 

♥   ♥   ♥

Josefine

Ploen Patterns


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